James Green watched in surprise days after Donald Trump's election as a horde of protesters marched on Palm Beach, a normally placid Florida barrier island, to the gates of the president-elect's beloved Mar-a-Lago club.

"That was one of the first times I thought: Palm Beach is getting to be the centre of the universe," Mr Green, a local lawyer, recalled.

The feeling has only intensified. For a 13-mile strip of sand known as an insular enclave of the very old and the very wealthy, Palm Beach is experiencing a burst of cultural relevance in the Trump era — and not

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