Ask Lonely Planet: 'Tis the season to bring a brolly

NZ Herald

31 Jul, 2009 04:00 PM6 mins to read

Gaudi's home can be seen in Barcelona, and Salvador Dali's childhood holiday spot along the Costa Brava. Photo / Linda Herrick

My husband and I are planning to go to Singapore and Thailand in August. I'm having great difficulty finding a suitable place to stay in south Thailand. I believe the Gulf of Thailand side is the best place to stay at this time of the year due to the weather.

Between May and October, the southwest monsoon drenches the country, so you can expect some rain every day. Although this is not the most desirable time to visit coastal Thailand, it is true that the Andaman coast is generally wetter year-round than the gulf coast. You should be aware that some southern resorts shut down completely during the monsoon season, some ferry routes don't operate and water visibility for diving and snorkelling drops.

Koh Samui, however, attracts visitors all year round. The most crowded beaches on Koh Samui are Hat Chaweng and Hat Lamai, both on the eastern side of the island. There's a reason for their popularity: they really are beautiful. For a quieter experience, try the beaches along the southern coast and western shore south of Na Thon.

You should also consider a day trip to the stunning Ang Thong National Marine Park for some snorkelling and kayaking.

As for accommodation, there are far too many places to list here. A few we like, though, include the following at Hat Chaweng: Montien House and Baan Chaweng Beach Resort & Spa. At Hat Lamai, there's Thai House Beach Resort and Samui Jasmine Resort. In the north, head for Bo Phut, where you'll find a string of vibrant boutique cottages - try L'Hacienda or B1 Villa & Spa.

Bangkok Airways flies between Singapore and Koh Samui. Travelling back to Singapore by train via KL involves catching a Seatran ferry from Samui to Surat Thani (one to three hours, $5 to $9). Only a couple of these departures connect by bus to the train station in Phun Phin, so make sure you choose the right one.

From Phun Phin you can take the train to Butterworth in Malaysia, where you can change for KL and on to Singapore. The most popular route is the line that branches west from Hat Yai to Alor Setar. The border region of the eastern branch from southern Thailand into Malaysia has been targeted by bomb attacks in the past and is not considered a very safe route. You will be able to obtain an entry permit for Malaysia at the border. For more information, go to www.railway.co.th. As part of your planning, have a read of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs' travel advisories for the countries you'll be visiting at www.safetravel.govt.nz.

Paths through the Pyrenees
In late September we will be driving from Barcelona to San Sebastian, perhaps via the Costa Brava if there is time. We have about six days to do this and would like to know if there is a recognised scenic route that skirts along, or in, the Pyrenees.
Ray Bennett

The Catalan Pyrenees aren't as high as those in neighbouring Aragon, but they still encompass some awesomely beautiful mountains and valleys and have a rich cultural heritage.

From Barcelona, you could drive along the Costa Brava via the medieval riverside town of Girona to the magical coastal village of Cadaques. Set around a rocky bay, Cadaques is where Salvador Dali spent many summer holidays as a child, and the iconic barren shorelines and rocky landscapes that fill his paintings owe much to the area.

There is no single scenic route through the Pyrenees that will get you from A to B, so grab a good touring map and take some time to explore the valleys, hill towns and villages that dot the region.

One idea would be to use the central town of La Seu d'Urgell as a base. Only 10km from neighbouring Andorra, Urgell has an admirable medieval cathedral that's one of Catalonia's most outstanding Romanesque buildings. From here you could follow the C13 north from Sort to Sorpe and Arreu, then work your way west across to Vielha, or even head north into neighbouring France to make your way to the coast and San Sebastian.

As part of your planning, make sure you read the travel safety advisory for Spain at www.safetravel.govt.nz.

Tips for Roman romance
I'm taking my wife to Rome for her 50th birthday. Can you suggest some romantic accommodation, and perhaps somewhere special I could take her to dinner?
Frank O'Riordan

Facing the Vatican City on the eastern bank of the River Tiber, the historic city centre is a lovely part of Rome to stay.

This part of Rome is filled with charming hotels, so take your pick from the following ideas, or have a look at http://hotels.lonelyplanet.com.

Teatropace 33 (www.hotelteatropace.com; rooms from $300) is a friendly guesthouse in a 17th-century cardinal's residence near Piazza Navona, with idiosyncratic timber-beamed rooms spread over four floors. There's no lift, just a monumental stone staircase, and friendly staff add to the charm.

The Daphne Inn (www.daphne-rome.com; rooms from $350) is near Piazza Barberini, at the foot of Via Veneto. The decor is a warm take on minimalist modern and the level of service is top-notch.

The Residenza Cellini (www.residenza cellini.it; rooms from $400) is effortlessly romantic, intimate and discreet. Fresh flowers adorn the bright hall, rooms are light and airy with parquet floors, choice antiques and fine fabrics.

Rome is romantically floodlit at night, so go for a stroll to the Trevi Fountain to throw in a coin, then head to the celebrated Hotel Forum (www.hotel forum.com/en) for a cocktail in the American Bar. The views from the hotel's top floor are spectacular.

For that special birthday dinner, book into Il Convivio Troiani, a much-loved restaurant near the River Tiber that prides itself on its romantic ambience and market-fresh, seasonally driven menu.

Before leaving, read the travel advisory for Italy at www.safetravel.govt.nz.