It's 8.30am and we've exchanged the cosiness of our unit at the Paihia Top 10 Holiday Park for the fresh air of Waitangi Mountain Bike Park. I'm wondering whether my slightly cranky "it's-too-early" face and barely veiled disappointment at the coffee shop not being open have prompted the uber-cheerful Jonny of Paihia Mountain Bikes (on-site hire) to give me an e-bike to try, rather than a regular bike, like my boys have. Having never ridden one before, I force a weak thank-you smile - not realising how life-changing this is about to be.
Jonny explains the trails to us, many with Māori names linked to legends or physical features of the land. His cheerful enthusiasm is infectious and I can't help but thaw, slightly. He asks me to give the bike a practice spin and watches, bemused, as a huge smile spreads across my face. I love the "assistance" boost I get every time I pedal when this super comfortable mountain beauty is in trail mode. This is the mountain biking I've been looking for; all the joy but none of the red-faced puffing. I actually have the headspace to take in the sights of the serene forest as we whizz through swoopy turns and over little jumps on the trail. The boys are green-eyed, but I'm thrilled to finally be able to keep up with them. The park has tracks for all levels as well as the option to be driven to the top for a magical all-downhill blast.
After our exhilarating morning, we head to the wharf for a quick bite before heading out on the Hole in the Rock Dolphin Cruise. Jimmy Jack's Rib Shack is just the ticket for hungry, carnivorous kids and the boys quickly devour their racks. We board the Fullers GreatSights catamaran and settle in; it's a cracking day and we sit back and relax, absorbing the blue-water vibes of the beautiful Bay of Islands.