Hi Eleanor, Where can I have an authentic Greek island experience? I'm not into hordes of tourists. Angelika
I have two Greek Islands for you: Amorgos and Iraklia, although there are certainly many more good options. There is at least one ferry each day departing from Athens' port of Piraeus to Amorgos. The trip is one of the longest and usually lasts from 8-10 hours.
The best advice for Greek ferries is to leave it in the hands of The Fates. In the shoulder season tickets can usually be bought an hour before scheduled departure. Turn up early, check where the boat will dock, retire to a kafeneio, then be in the right place at the right time.
Wherever you go, stay a while. By slowing down you'll gain a new appreciation for the many colours of the sea, the sun-ripened tomatoes, the cobbled paths, the changing light, the wildlife - and the locals.
Amorgos is renowned for its stunning hiking trails, landscape, architecture, caves and beaches. Ensure you are well-informed about the trails' degrees of difficulty, and whether they are passable. Essential is an early-morning walk from Hora towards the 11th-century monastery of Panagia Hozoviotissa. Climb 300 steps to a cliff face 300m above the sea, walk through the low marble doorway and take the staircase to the chapel, where treasures and icons are kept. You will be rewarded with gorgeous views of the Mediterranean and perhaps a treat or two from the monks. From there, descend towards the lovely little pebble beach of Agia Anna. Other good beach options include Tris Ierarches, Aghios Pavlos, Kalotaritissa, Mouros, Maltezi and Aghios Panteleimonas.
Iraklia is a great place to do nothing except go to the beach and find a bar when it gets too hot. Quiet, secluded, almost cut off from the rest of the world. Head to the island by ferry from Naxos or Amorgos. The main port and beaches are in Agios Georgios, but it's worth hiking in to Livadi Beach, accessible via trail. On this island there are rock paintings thought to be 5000 years old. The cave of St John is awesome. There are seals and sea turtles; at Merichas bay you can see vultures' and pigeons' nests. In Agios Georgios on Iraklia, go to Akathi and Syrma for incredible food.
Unless you speak Greek, try to book your accommodation beforehand. Wrangle with hotels at the time and you may face inconsistent pricing or extra fees. Airbnb may be your best bet, but traditional, local-run guesthouses may be the best option on Iraklia, as they can help you get around.