Anna Harrison enjoys Art Deco beauty and learns head nudity rules

It's always the first thing I want to know. Will I have to take my clothes off? Just thinking about visiting public baths in another country gives me a case of mild anxiety. So Budapest, the City of Spas, is enough to give me a twitchy eye.

One of the most famous is on the banks of the Danube beside the green Liberty Bridge. The imposing, turn-of-the-century building is emblazoned with capped letters: Gellert. It gets its name and thermal waters from the hill behind, after the saint who

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