Auckland’s best swimming spots within an hour’s drive of the city

Sullivans Bay, Mahurangi, is one of Auckland's best swimming spots. Photo / Supplied

Nicola McCloy’s new book ‘Jump In’ has found NZ’s best beaches, lakes, rivers, pools and hot springs. In this exclusive extract, we find out her picks for five spots within an hour’s drive of Auckland city, but check out the book for your guide to the rest of the country.

There’s something brilliantly paradoxical about water. It can inspire you and humble you. It can heal you and hurt you. It can challenge you and soothe you. It can warm you and cool you. It can tire you and refresh you. Most of all, though, it has the capacity to make you see the world in a different way.

I love being in the water. Whether swimming off the coast, in the middle of a lake or cruising down a river rapid, you get to see the land in a way that not many others do. You get to see things – whether it’s stingrays, dolphins, orca, fish, eels, endangered birds, native bush or views of the city – that differ from the day-to-day. You don’t have to go far to have your perspective changed, and I think there’s a real joy in that.

One of the other beautiful things about swimming is that it doesn’t discriminate by age. Once you know how to do it, you can keep doing it pretty much forever. It’s good for the body, the brain and the soul.

In recent years, more and more people seem to be embracing the joy of swimming outdoors. Given New Zealand has between 15,000 and 18,000km of coastline, almost 4000 lakes and 180,000km of rivers (and that’s only what’s been mapped so far), there’s plenty of room for all of us. With so much water around, it can sometimes be tricky to work out where to swim. That’s where this book comes in.

This is a collection of places that I’ve enjoyed swimming at, or that have been strongly recommended by friends who know their stuff. I’ve done my best to cover a good range of ocean, lake, river and hot-pool locations. I’ve also included suggestions for those of you who want to get a long swim in. That said, it’s not just for the seasoned distance swimmer – it’s for anyone who wants to get in the water.

Jump In: An Insider’s Guide to New Zealand’s Best Beaches, Lakes, Rivers, Pools and Hot Springs, by Nicola McCloy. Photo / Supplied

It’s by no means an exhaustive guide, but I hope that it will inspire you to check out some places that are new to you, to swim in places you might not have thought of before, or to find places to swim when you’re in a new place. More than anything, I’d love to see well-used, dog-eared copies of this guide living in people’s cars as inspiration for road-trip swim stops.

I like to think this book is the next best thing to talking to locals about where to swim. That kind of knowledge is worth its weight in gold – especially in places where the nature of the water means swimming holes change every year. I’m looking at you, rivers in Canterbury!

To be included in the book, these swim spots had to be reasonably easy to access, have some carparking nearby and require an average level of fitness to get to. On top of that, I made sure not to include roads that require a four-wheel drive. I also took safety into account, but – given swimming is involved – there’s never any guarantees on that front. It’s important that you understand your level of ability and the conditions before you get into the water.

If you’re just getting into swimming and want to increase your water skills, look for local swim groups and events as these are a great way to meet people, find out good places to swim locally and level up your ability. The better your swim skills are, the more fun you’ll have out there in the water – and having fun is what it’s all about after all.

Here are five top picks for Auckland:

Sullivans Bay, Mahurangi. Photo / Supplied

Sullivan’s Bay/Otarawao Bay

Mahurangi Regional Park (West), Auckland

The first thing you should know about heading to Mahurangi West is that there is a strong chance someone in your vehicle will let out a swear upon seeing the views from the top of the ridge. The vista out across Pukapuka Inlet and Mahurangi Harbour is freaking gorgeous.

Otarawao was part of the rohe of Ngāti Rongo, and the Sullivan name came from a ship’s captain – John Sullivan, who came to Mahurangi in the 1840s and married local woman Merehai Kaipuke. It was here that they settled in the 1870s, and their descendants continued to farm this land for more than a century.

Down at Sullivan’s Bay/Otarawao, there’s a small campground along with the basic amenities you’d expect in a regional park. The day I visited, the camp was closed and there were about three other cars there, which just added to the epicness of the place. That said, it does get really busy here over the summer holiday period and long weekends so expect to have to share during these times.

Having chosen my track across the (regenerating) dunes, I found myself on a long stretch of beach offering views past a single yacht moored just offshore to Mahurangi East and Te Haupa (Saddle) Island. The water was super clear and, at mid-tide, the drop-off was just right – not so shallow that you have to walk a long way, but not so deep that it’d be unsafe for less confident swimmers. The bay is very sheltered, protected by its headlands and Mahurangi West, so it makes for some excellent swimming.

If you’re feeling lazy, pack a picnic and make yourself comfortable in the shade of the trees on the reserve. If you’re feeling energetic, the park is home to heaps of different walking tracks, so pick a direction and off you go.

GETTING THERE: Take the Northern Gateway toll road north, then take the Pūhoi exit just after the tunnel. Turn right onto Pūhoi Road, then left onto Pōhuehue Road. After 3.4 km, turn right onto Mahurangi West Road. After 5.5 km, turn right onto Ngarewa Drive, and Sullivan’s Bay is 2.3 km down the road.

PARKING: Yes, behind the reserve by the beach

TOILETS: Yes, modern

CHANGING ROOMS: No, but the toilets are very spacious

SHOWERS: No, but there are drinking fountains/foot-washing taps dotted along the reserve

KID FRIENDLY: Yes

DOG FRIENDLY: As this is a regional park, leave the pets at home.

LONG SWIM OPTIONS: Head north around the rocks and you’ll find Mita Bay. There’s another campground here, but as it’s only accessible by water or a low-tide walk around the rocks, it’s less busy than Sullivan’s Bay. I reckon it’s about an 800-metre swim, but I didn’t quite make it all the way there as I got distracted by fish on the rocky reef, then the wind came up and I decided it was safest to head back. Depending on wind and tide, another option would be to do a lap of tiny Pudding Island at the southern end of the beach.

Te Hāruhi Bay. Photo / Supplied

Te Haruhi Bay

Shakespear Regional Park, Auckland

Let’s get this out of the way – the missing ‘e’ is not a spelling mistake. This is not about the bard, but the Shakespear family, who owned a piece of land at the end of the Whangaparāoa Peninsula for 84 years until they sold it to the council in 1967.

Truth be told, the drive up to Shakespear Regional Park is a bit of a schlep as traversing the length of the Whangaparāoa Peninsula can be a bit slow going at times. There will be moments when you’re sitting in traffic, wondering if it’s worth the trip. The answer is absolutely, yes it is!

If driving an extra three minutes feels like too much and you really need to swim or the wind is blowing from the south, park up at Army Bay and hop in the water. (The name comes from the military camp out on the headland.)

Heading into the park proper, though, involves passing through a predator-proof gate designed to protect the native bird species, including kiwi, that thrive in this 500-hectare sanctuary. From there, wind down the hill to Te Haruhi Bay. At the eastern end of the bay is a small(ish) campground, but the rest of the reserve alongside the beach has carparking and facilities for day visitors. Don’t be put off if it seems like there are a lot of cars in the carpark as the park is also a magnet for walkers, mountain bikers, bird watchers and picnickers.

The beach is about 1 kilometre long, so there’s plenty of space for swimmers, paddle boarders and the odd windsurfer. This beach is super safe for kids, especially at low tide when you have to walk quite a long way out into the water before you get properly submerged. Even so, the clear water and the sandy bottom mean this doesn’t feel like a chore. Keep an eye out for sand dollars and starfish as you go, and if you really want to check out the marine life, head over to the rocky reef at the western end of the bay.

One of my favourite things about this spot is that, on a clear day, you can see Auckland’s high-rise skyline hovering in the distance looking as if it’s some sort of futuristic floating city. Then you look around you and realise you’re having a swim in this beautiful place and – for now anyway – that’s not your world.

GETTING THERE: Go north on SH1 then take the Silverdale off-ramp. At the roundabout, take the third exit onto Hibiscus Coast Highway. After 2.6 km, turn right onto Whangaparāoa Road. About 10 km along the road, take the roundabout’s second exit. After another 3 km, take the roundabout’s first exit. At Army Bay, turn right onto Bruce Harvey Drive, head through the gate and down to Te Haruhi Bay.

PARKING: Plenty in the reserve

TOILETS: Yes

CHANGING ROOMS: Big, old-school ones

SHOWERS: Yes

KID FRIENDLY: Definitely

DOG FRIENDLY: As this is a regional park, leave your pets at home.

OPEN HOURS: The park’s gates are open from 6am to 9pm in summer and 6am to 7pm in winter.

Murrays Bay, East Coast Bays. Photo / Supplied

East Coast Bays

Campbells Bay, Murrays Bay and Waiake, Auckland

I’ve swum all of the Shore’s beaches more times than I can count, and these three are my absolute favourites – each for different reasons and in different seasons.

Starting from the south and working north, let’s head to Campbells Bay. This is a classic North Shore beach with its pōhutukawa-lined stretch of golden sand, but it’s out in the water that Campbells Bay comes into its own. That’s because there’s a rocky reef not far offshore, which – on a calm day – is an excellent place to check out some aquatic life. There’s plenty of fish, including some decent-sized snapper, lots of starfish and then there’s my favourite little lemon doris nudibranch. Another benefit of the reef being quite close in is that during peak jet-ski season, when I don’t feel so safe in the water, I like to tuck in between the rocks and the shore when I want to go for a longer swim.

A couple of kilometres north of Campbells Bay is Murrays Bay. This place is often quite busy with small yachts as the local sailing club is really popular. In part, this is because the bay is protected from the northerly by a decent-sized headland. While Murrays is a beaut spot for a swim, let’s be honest, the main reason non-yachtsfolk come here is because of the wharf.

There’s been a wharf here since 1916, but the old wharves kept getting demolished in storms. After it was wrecked in 2016, the council decided to rebuild it so that it would weather whatever got thrown at it. The catch? This wharf hasn’t been designed for boats. It’s purely for use by people.

Jutting out from the shore 60 metres, the water below the wharf is about 3 metres deep at high tide. This makes it the perfect spot for a manu, which is exactly what the end of the wharf is designed for. While most of the wharf is protected by railings, the end of it is open to the sea, so it can be jumped off.

Having thrown yourself into the water, getting back onto the wharf couldn’t be easier – there’s a ladder and also a set of stairs. My best advice here: if you’re jumping with a GoPro, make sure it’s properly attached or you’ll find yourself having to wait for low tide to come back and retrieve it. (The footage was hilarious though!) Another 5 kilometres up Beach Road, you’ll find Waiake Beach. This is my favourite winter swimming spot as the carparks are right next to the changing rooms and it’s a short stroll down to the water. In summer though, this place comes into its own. The cove is sheltered by headlands to the north and south, so it’s a great place to swim when it’s windy. There’s rocky reefs to the south to explore, but if you’re there at high tide, a lap of the Tor (which gives nearby Torbay its name) is a must. Just be aware that there’s a boat ramp on the northern side of the bay, so watch out for traffic.

If the beach at Waiake is a bit peopley, there are some beaut wee spots along the coast here that are tricky to access from land but easily swimmable so you’ll probably have them to yourself.

GETTING THERE: Most of Auckland’s North Shore beaches north of Milford can be accessed from Beach Road, which runs from Milford to Long Bay. The exception here is Campbells Bay, which has parking and access off Huntly Road and The Esplanade.

PARKING: Yes

TOILETS: Yes

CHANGING ROOMS: Yes

SHOWERS: Cold outdoor showers

KID FRIENDLY: Yes

DOG FRIENDLY: Yes, except between December 1 and March 1, when they’re not allowed on the beaches between 10am and 5pm

LONG SWIM OPTIONS: You can pretty much swim as far as you like at these beaches. Boat traffic can get busy so tow floats are a must, especially if you’re heading offshore. Organise with your swim buddies to leave a car at either end and clock up some point-to-points with a bit of tidal assist. Particular favourites of mine are Waiake to Browns Bay (1.8 km), Waiake to Long Bay (2.8 km), and Mairangi Bay to Browns Bay (2.6 km but watch out for yachts off Murrays Bay). If you’re not keen on getting that far out in open water, Takapuna, Milford and Browns Bay all have excellent buoy lines you can follow to get a long swim in.

Lake Wainamu. Photo / Supplied

Lake Wainamu

Te Henga/Bethells Beach, Auckland

Auckland is justly famous for its beaches, but this freshwater lake is one of my favourite places to swim in the whole country as it has so much to offer. Lake Wainamu is my go-to day out when I have visitors from overseas and I want them to see something of why I love living in this city. The lake is small, covering just 15 hectares, but it’s kind of a miracle it even exists given it’s only a couple of kilometres from the wild west coast beach of Te Henga.

The drive out to Te Henga is a mission in itself as it’s quite windy and can be slow going, but if you just chill and go with the flow, it helps to get you into the right headspace for being out in the Waitākere Ranges Regional Park. Also good for getting in that headspace is the fact there’s no cellphone coverage out here, so it’s just you, the land and the lake. So good.

Once you’ve parked the car and found your way to the start of the track to the lake, you’ve got a decision to make – wade up the black-sand bottomed Waitī stream or head out over the black sand dunes to get to the lake. There’s no track across the dunes, but it’s quite easy to tell which way you should be going. While the wade up the stream is best done in bare feet with your jandals in your hand, going completely barefoot is not a smart option as the sand can get super hot.

If you take the dune route, you’ll drop down from the height of the dunes to the lake’s edge, while the stream option will bring you to a small jetty, which is perfect for jumping from. The bonus with approaching the lake this way is that the jetty is tucked off around a corner, so you don’t get to see the full sweep of the lake until you’ve swum out a wee way.

Lying within the rohe of Te Kawerau ā Maki, the area around the lake was the site of several pā built by their ancestor, Kowhatukiteuru. A pou depicting this rangatira stands near the waterfall at the northern end of the lake.

Regenerating native bush lines much of the lake, and it is also home to some vital wetland ecosystems. Just how special this place is can really be gleaned by just lying back in the water, listening to native birds sing and call to each other while kids of all ages jump off the wharf and surf down the sand dunes. Pure magic.

GETTING THERE: From SH 16, take exit 18 towards Massey, turn left onto Makora Road then right onto Triangle Road. At the first roundabout, take the first exit onto Don Buck Road. At the next roundabout, take the second exit onto Red Hills Road. After 2 km, turn left onto Sunnyvale Road. After 5 km, turn left onto Township Road, then right onto Waitākere Road, then left onto Bethells Road. The Lake Wainamu carpark is signposted about 10 km down this road.

PARKING: Yes

TOILETS: Yes, up the back of the lake in the sand dunes

CHANGING ROOMS: No

SHOWERS: No

KID FRIENDLY: Yes, so long as they’re happy to walk

DOG FRIENDLY: No

LONG SWIM OPTIONS: The lake is about 1 kilometre long so it provides a nice out and back. Just don’t try to swim up to find the outlet for the waterfall as you’ll likely just get bogged.

Huia Beach. Photo / Supplied

Huia Beach

Huia, Auckland

My first ever expedition out into the Waitākere Ranges was to Huia, and since then I’ve always had a real soft spot for the place. It’s only 40 minutes’ drive from the centre of Auckland city but it might as well be a world away. As you wind your way down the hill from Titirangi, the busyness of the city gradually fades and the dull hum of traffic slowly disappears. Out here, there’s just the bush, the beach and the bay to think about.

When it comes to swimming, the inlet at Huia stretches for about a kilometre with Hinge Bay to the west and Foster and Bryan bays to the east. The bay is pretty shallow making this a great place to swim for all the family but especially the smaller ones.

This whole area is a sheltered cove, so when the wind is low and the water’s flat, you can wallow to your heart’s content without having to worry about the omnipresent rips that the west coast beaches just around the corner offer up.

Speaking of ‘the corner’, the land mass you’ll see out ahead of you at Huia is South Head, on the other side of the boat-unfriendly entrance to the Manukau Harbour. It’s about 5 kilometres away as the tūī flies, but to drive it’s 129 kilometres and almost two hours away! Floating in the gentle, bush-flanked waters of Huia Bay, the wild waters of the Manukau feel almost as far away as the city and its chaos.

There are a number of campgrounds around Huia as well as quite a few baches for rent, so it’s a great place for a weekend away from the city. If you’re just coming out for a day trip, there are barbecues and picnic tables at the domain, but if that’s too much effort there’s excellent coffee and delicious food – including fish ’n’ chips – at the legendary Huia Store.

GETTING THERE: From Auckland city, take SH16 west then take exit 8A onto Great North Road. Continue for 10 km, but be aware that at New Lynn the road becomes Titirangi Road. Having passed through Titirangi township, at the roundabout take the first exit onto Huia Road. Continue for 3.2 km and take the first exit at the next roundabout to stay on Huia Road. Carry on for 11.6 km to reach Huia Domain.

PARKING: Yes

TOILETS: Yes

CHANGING ROOMS: Yes

KID FRIENDLY: Yes, the water in the bay is really shallow for a long way out and the domain has a playground, a rope swing and a basketball half-court.

DOG FRIENDLY: Yes, but they need to be on a leash in the reserve

NOTE: The beach here is tidal, so it’s a long walk out to deeper water if the tide’s out, so check the tide times before you decide to head out here.

‘Jump In: An Insider’s Guide to New Zealand’s Best Beaches, Lakes, Rivers, Pools and Hot Springs’, HarperCollins RRP $39.99