Should you visit Antarctica or the Arctic? Photo / Unsplash
Which destination offers more: Antarctica or the Arctic? Sue Halliwell compares both places as polar travel destinations.
They may look alike, but as travel destinations go, the Arctic and Antarctic are poles apart.
Each will mesmerise with its otherworldly icescapes, profound silence, day-lit summer nights, ethereal aurora and desperate fragility – and cost you a pretty penny to reach. Seeing both is therefore beyond most pockets, so how do you satisfy the polar urge by choosing the best destination for you?
Having had the enormous privilege of visiting both ends of the earth on spectacular National Geographic-Lindblad expedition cruises, I can reliably report that picking a pole is easier than you think. The world of difference between them is key, starting with the wildlife.
READ MORE: Former Prime Minister Sir John Key’s Antarctica expedition travel diary
For many, it comes down to a simple toss-up between the hot ticket animals – the Arctic’s polar bears, walrus, Arctic fox and reindeer versus Antarctica’s penguins, albatross and elephant seals. You won’t find the former among the latter, or vice-versa, so if it’s penguins or polar bears that float your floe, the decision is clear.
It may also help to know that while the Arctic has more animal species, Antarctica has a greater number of its native species. Although, that doesn’t guarantee you’ll see them, especially if your cruise doesn’t go where they hang out. It would be tragic to travel all that (expensive) way to discover your pet polar animal isn’t there, or not at that time of year. So, take time to research their habitats and seasonal habits before booking.
Some polar species can be seen in both destinations, such as the great whales. Blue whales and polar bears topped my Arctic cruise wishlist, and I saw both at close quarters from our ship. Not to be outdone, Antarctica turned on breath-taking fin whale, humpback whale and orca viewing from both the ship and ashore.
That’s one of many sound reasons for ensuring your polar cruise offers onshore excursions. Not all cruises land passengers, particularly the larger ships, so check the fine print before booking if stepping ashore is important to you. Be forewarned, landing at either ice cap will require adherence to strict biosecurity protocols and wildlife guidelines to protect vulnerable animals. And, if you feel a bit vulnerable yourself going ashore in the Arctic, rest assured you’ll be chaperoned by rifle-toting crew to scare off the bears.
Thankfully, armed guards aren’t necessary in Antarctica, with most wildlife content just to eye humans suspiciously or too busy going about their chaotic feeding and breeding business to bother with us. The occasional penguin will waddle through the lolling elephant seals to check you out, with both noisy colonies intriguing to watch.
Equally as fascinating is the Antarctic ice. While the Arctic also has glaciers, bergs and pack ice galore, Antarctica’s ice structures of multi-hued blue somehow seem stranger, bigger and more photogenic. You could take 1000 photos and never capture a similar shape – something that won’t happen with Antarctic plants. Only two vascular plants grow there, and sparsely. So, if botany is your thing, head to the Arctic and its astounding 1700 flora species.
Indeed, humans have headed to the poles for myriad reasons for centuries, although Antarctica was first sighted only 200 years ago and remains without permanent human settlement beyond scientific bases. By contrast, the Arctic is steeped in human culture and history. Its native peoples have lived in harmony with this challenging environment for millennia, with about four million residing there today. Most Arctic cruises visit at least one of these colourful Indigenous communities, allowing passengers to experience their legendary and long-established ways of life.
Granted, Kiwis must fly a long way to reach the major Arctic cruise departure hubs in Norway, Iceland, Denmark, Canada, Alaska or Russia, or for land-based Arctic tours in places such as Canada’s Churchill. This makes Antarctica our more accessible polar choice, and – even better – many voyages to Eastern Antarctica’s Ross Sea and Scott Base leave from South Island ports, taking in wildlife-packed sub-Antarctic islands along the way.
Argentina’s Ushuaia and Chile’s Punta Arenas are the usual departure points for West Antarctic voyages, and to the relief of Antarctic tourists dreading New Zealand’s southern oceans below or the infamous Drake Passage, flight/cruise options are now also operational from these South American ports and are growing in popularity.
I’m happy to say the Drake Passage was well-mannered for me, and a great opportunity to relax in the ship’s lounge and listen to informative, thought-provoking natural history presentations from onboard specialists. The same occurred on our Arctic ‘at sea’ days, deeply enriching our cruise experience.
Full enjoyment of your cruise may also rely on its timing. Early in the summer cruise season – late April to early September in the Arctic, and late October to late March in Antarctica – is best for seeing dramatic icebergs and animal courtship displays, with babies born and eggs hatching in mid-summer, and the big whales most prolific toward the end of the season. Auroras light up the Arctic sky throughout its summer, but are best viewed in Antarctica from March to September, requiring a cruise at the extreme ends of the season to improve chances of observing these incredible natural phenomena.
Polar travel is cheaper in the shoulder seasons, too, but may still out-price your average overseas holiday. Costs have certainly increased in recent years, possibly to take advantage of ‘last-chance travellers’ desperate to see the ice caps and their residents before climate change does its darnedest. Excluding flights, Antarctic cruises range from under $8000 to over $150,000 a person, depending on how long and luxuriously you wish to travel, the off-ship excursions and ship size.
Arctic cruises also vary considerably in price. While they can exceed $100,000 a head for packages including business class flights and pre- and post-cruise accommodation, you can also pick up a cheap Arctic voyage on a re-purposed scientific research vessel if you don’t mind basic facilities and catering.
Whether you decide on the Arctic or Antarctica, you will be paying to see what may never be seen again, just as you will never be the same again after seeing it. Having visited both, people often ask which I would revisit and there’s no toss-up needed. Offer me either and I’d do it, just to experience its rare and extreme nature, its wild and wonderful world apart, one more glorious time.
Antarctica:
The Arctic:
Sue Halliwell travelled to the Arctic and Antarctica with National Geographic-Lindblad expedition cruises.
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