Embra's Phill and Nora Blackburne were again recognised in the Cuisine Good Food Guide 2024. Photo / Olivia Moore
The Waikato is the next up-and-coming foodie destination - this is what a look at this year’s Cuisine Good Food Awards recipients show.
Almost 20 local restaurants, from Tuakau to Tūrangi, have received accolades.
The annual awards are run by Cuisine Magazine which crowns 20 category winners, as well as recipients of 1, 2 or 3 hats. The awards also crown so-called cuisine destinations.
Taupō restaurant Embra, which received a hat rating last year, stood out again this year, as it received two hats and the Regional Restaurant of the Year Award.
The judges described Embra as a “fine-dining establishment” whose British and French cooking techniques turned “treasures from the land and sea into triumphs”.
On its social media, the restaurant acknowledged the double win.
“After an amazing evening in Auckland... we are beyond happy to come home to Taupō having been awarded Regional Restaurant of The Year by @cuisinemagazine and we have retained our 2 Hat award for another year.
“We are so incredibly proud and honoured by this and the credit is definitely going out to our amazing little team - could not do this without you!”
Meanwhile, Hamilton establishment Palate also received high praise.
Sommelier Larissa Mueller won the award for Sommelier and Wine Experience of the Year and the restaurant itself received one hat.
The judges said it was easier to decide what drinks to pair than whether to share with dishes like artichoke panna cotta, “a textural triumph” with twice-cooked artichoke pieces, confit egg yolk and wafer-thin croutons.
They also highlighted Palate’s venison-tongue skewers topped with chimichurri and cipollini onions, and the duck tagliatelle with pieces of smoky, crispy-skinned duck with mushrooms, slivers of endive, walnut pesto, tonka bean and walnut.
Other “hatted” restaurants in Waikato are Taupō’s The Bistro, Hamilton’s The Green and Alpino in Cambridge. They all received one hat.
There are a further 12 local restaurants which were named Cuisine Destination.
In total, the Cuisine judging panel of 40 people, including food writers, critics, chefs and hospitality professionals, crowned over 320 award recipients from across New Zealand.
The awards featured two new categories this year: the New Restaurant of the Year showcasing excellence in all levels of hospitality within a unique new concept and the Ōra King New Zealand Global Champion award which shines a light on a leading Kiwi voice that is telling the New Zealand food-and-drink story on a global platform.
The winners, which will feature in the Cuisine Good Food Guide 2024/2025, were announced in Auckland on August 26.
Lead assessor Kerry Tyack said the 2024 running of the awards included 60 more restaurants than in last year’s selection.
“Kiwi cuisine continues to capture our imagination, taking us on exciting journeys down sometimes unexpected pathways, always surprising us with variety and constantly challenging us with its creativity.
“Highlights this year have been the welcome return of focus on root vegetables, further support for sustainability and broad acknowledgement that shorter menus have a legitimate role to play in the restaurant experience.”
Cuisine editor Kelli Brett said the hospitality sector had been under pressure for some time.
“Wherever we are across our beautiful country, there are standout places that we enjoy eating at again and again.
“They’re the places we’re excited to take friends or visitors, the ones that consistently deliver great food, standout service and a quality experience. So we need to keep supporting them.”
Embra (Taupō)
Two hats and Regional Restaurant of the Year Award
Chef Phill Blackburne, who was born in Taupō, ended up in Edinburgh on his OE and ‘Embra’ is short for the place where he began his craft under the mentorship of chef Dominic Jack at the award-winning Castle Terrace restaurant. Since opening in January 2022, Embra has been attracting high praise from locals and visitors. The judges described it as a “fine-dining establishment” which had “food of the quality that you typically don’t find in small, regional towns”. The menu changes seasonally and is presented by principal ingredient – for example ham hock, gurnard, beef or persimmon. “Simple it may sound, but exemplary British and French cooking technique turns these treasures from the land and sea into triumphs,” judges said.
The Bistro (Taupō)
One hat
The judges said chef Jude Messenger’s steady hand ensured this family favourite remained “true to self”, serving a menu supportive of local produce and reflective of seasonal bounty. They highlighted Hawke’s Bay fish and Cambridge duck on the main-course menu and the grilled scotch fillet of Greenstone beef with Brussels sprouts, Jerusalem artichoke and field mushrooms with roasted cauliflower cake served with caper and raisin emulsion.
Palate (Hamilton)
One hat
Chef Mat McLean has reopened another version of Palate at the entrance to SkyCity Hamilton. Judges noted the artichoke panna cotta had been “a textural triumph”, all crunch and unctuousness with twice-cooked artichoke pieces, confit egg yolk and wafer-thin croutons. They also highlighted venison-tongue skewers topped with chimichurri and cipollini onions, duck tagliatelle with pieces of smoky, crispy-skinned duck with mushrooms, slivers of endive, walnut pesto, tonka bean and walnut, and roasted sweet/tart rhubarb atop a warm pudding with a jammy rhubarb centre.
The Green (Hamilton)
One hat
The judges described this as a “tiny regional superstar worthy of support”. “Pull up a chair [one of only eight] at this chef’s table overlooking the Waikato River and prepare to be amazed by Karl Martin-Boulton’s celebration of the people, produce and seasons of this taste-forward region.” The menu may change daily and includes bite-sized chef’s snacks, including a miso-and-yeast pie, a cauliflower course, finely shaved and curried with pickled onions and goat’s cheese, snapper with smoked eel and Jerusalem artichoke, kawakawa and crispy kale and feijoa sorbet and blackened feijoa flavoured with herbaceous sorrel with textures of apple, plum and bay leaf.
Alpino (Cambridge)
One hat
Located on Victoria St in the heart of Cambridge, Alpino Restaurant is the restaurant of choice for many locals. It is the brainchild of restaurateurs Kim Smythe and Noel Cimadon. You might just want a beer and a snack, or a big bowl of pasta or you may want linger over antipasti, secondi and dolce. “Either way, everyone is catered to and everyone is happy in true Italian style,” judges said. They especially noted the veal ragu swirled through pasta and topped with aged parmesan, the pizza and the risotto with prawns, nduja and leeks.
Plateau Bar and Eatery (Taupō)
Cuisine Destination
Judges noted lots of lovely vegetables and sharing small plates to start, and a succinct menu of main courses, all under the watchful eye of a former staffer of nearby Huka Lodge.
The Hare and Copper (Tūrangi)
Cuisine Destination
Chef Andrew Wood, previously chef at Wellington’s El Matador, set up this restaurant in Tūrangi. “Think Argentinian, Asian and spicy Mexican flavours and choose from dining fireside on wintry nights or outdoors through the summery evenings,” the judges said.
Rock It Kitchen (Raglan)
Cuisine Destination
Judges noted an “eclectic” menu, including poke bowls, lamb and falafel hawker rolls, fried chicken burgers and a breakfast platter, that focused on organic ingredients.
Gothenburg (Hamilton)
Cuisine Destination
The judges said that with a “lively menu” of tapas, tasty and “beautifully presented small plates” and a wine list with lots of choice by the glass, Gothenburg had everything that keeps the locals returning.
Hayes Common (Hamilton)
Cuisine Destination
With a plant-based menu for breakfast, lunch and dinner, all tastes are catered for in fresh, local fashion, the judges said.
Mr Pickles Bar and Eatery (Hamilton)
The judges especially noted the sharing menu including a mix-and-match charcuterie but said to those wanting a plate just for themselves would be served well with the steak and fish.
Sage (Hamilton)
There’s a simple menu of dishes designed to be shared. The judges said to expect “beautifully presented small and large plates” including toothsome duck breast with cabbage and almond cream or roasted flounder with lentils and herbs.
Camellia (Gordonton)
“Experienced, French-trained chefs bring sophistication to this country bistro set in the stunning gardens of this exquisite tea estate near Hamilton,” the judges said. Fresh seasonally inspired dishes include shellfish with seaweed butter and saffron, snapper with chestnut scales on risotto and a grand game pithivier with red cabbage and apple.
The Shack (Raglan)
The judges said co-owner Justin Thomson’s menu just keeps getting better and better. “He delivers something everyone can relate to, understand and feel comfortable with.”
Te Karaka Station & Lodge (Tuakau)
The dining room of this rural country retreat welcomes locals to join guests to dine in the restaurant by reservation. The judges said the “simple” three-course meal was “beautifully cooked” and stars beef or lamb as the main course.
The Falls Retreat (Waihi)
This rural hideaway offers three cabins for accommodation and opens for a set menu to the public for dinner on Fridays and Saturdays. The judges said chef-owner Brad King was highly regarded for his “masterful” beef and lamb dishes using produce from his own organic vege gardens and local farmers.
The Brantry Eatery (Taupō)
A seasonal three-course set-dinner menu offers a choice of four entrées, four mains and a selection of classic desserts. The judges said all plates were well-balanced with “thoughtful” garnishes and accompaniments. They also noted there is a contemporary art gallery upstairs.
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