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Home / Lifestyle

Why Kiwis are making their muffins stodgy – and how to fix it

Nikki Birrell
NZ Herald·
26 Oct, 2025 08:00 PM5 mins to read

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Muffins should be the simplest bake in the world – but too often they turn out dense, dry or mysteriously tough. Photo / Babiche Martens

Muffins should be the simplest bake in the world – but too often they turn out dense, dry or mysteriously tough. Photo / Babiche Martens

Some of New Zealand’s favourite dishes are also the causes of our most frequent kitchen calamities. In this series, Herald food contributor Nikki Birrell tackles our most common culinary mistakes. We’re all guilty of one...

Muffins should be the simplest bake in the world – but too often they turn out dense, dry or mysteriously tough. Here, we tackle the science behind stodgy muffins and how to prevent them. From the golden rule of folding just enough (but never too much) to the surprising benefits of resting your batter and starting hot, these small adjustments make a big difference. Whether sweet or savoury, your next batch will be lighter, softer and far more satisfying to eat.

There are few greater betrayals in home baking than biting into a muffin that looks golden and proud, only to find a dense, chewy interior that clings to your teeth. A good muffin should feel soft and springy, with a tender crumb and enough moisture to keep you reaching for another. But all too often, the humble lunchbox favourite turns heavy, dry or oddly rubbery.

Muffins sit between cake and bread – they need enough structure to rise, but not so much gluten that they become tough. Photo / Babiche Martens
Muffins sit between cake and bread – they need enough structure to rise, but not so much gluten that they become tough. Photo / Babiche Martens

The dish

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Muffins have somehow earned a reputation as foolproof. They’re the baked good you whip up without a recipe card, the quick fix for a bake sale or rainy Sunday. Yet despite their simplicity, they’re also one of the easiest to ruin. Too much mixing, too little leavening, an oven that’s too cool or too hot – all roads lead to stodginess.

What we’re really chasing is balance. Muffins sit between cake and bread – they need enough structure to rise, but not so much gluten that they become tough. And because they’re meant to be eaten the day they’re baked, a muffin that dries out too quickly can feel like an edible warning against batch-baking.

Muffin recipes to try

  • Banana and coconut muffin recipe
  • Orange and cinnamon muffin recipe
  • Gluten-free apple and cinnamon muffin recipe
  • Rhubarb and berry muffin recipe
  • Peach and plum bran muffin recipe

The fix

  1. Use the muffin method – and stop stirring sooner Combine your dry ingredients in one bowl and your wet in another, then fold the wet into the dry just until you can’t see streaks of flour. A few lumps are fine. Overmixing develops gluten, which makes muffins chewy instead of tender. As a rule, 10 to 12 gentle folds with a spatula is plenty.
  2. Rest the batter Letting the mixture sit for five to 10 minutes before baking gives the flour time to hydrate and the raising agents time to start working. It’s a quiet step that makes a visible difference – lighter texture, rounder domes.
  3. Start hot, then reduce Begin baking at 210C (fan 190C) for five minutes, then drop to 180C (fan 160C) for the remaining time. That initial heat gives the batter a quick lift before the crumb sets, producing a tall muffin instead of a squat one.
  4. Mind your measurements Muffin success depends on ratios. Too much flour and they’ll be dense, too much liquid and they’ll rise fast then collapse. Weighing ingredients, rather than scooping, helps keep things consistent.
  5. Add mix-ins last Whether it’s blueberries, chocolate chips or grated apple, fold them through at the end to avoid crushing fruit or smearing chocolate through the batter. Overmixing at this stage can also knock out air bubbles.
A good muffin should bounce back when pressed and hold its shape when torn. Photo / Babiche Martens
A good muffin should bounce back when pressed and hold its shape when torn. Photo / Babiche Martens

Keeping them moist

A dry muffin is worse than no muffin at all. Moisture comes from fat, sugar and fruit – and how you treat them. Use oil rather than butter for longer-lasting softness, and don’t be shy with yoghurt, buttermilk or mashed banana; they bring tenderness and flavour.

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Once baked, let muffins cool for five minutes in the tin, then move them to a rack. Leaving them in the tin traps steam and can make the sides tough, while transferring them too soon risks breakage. When cool, store in an airtight container with a piece of baking paper and a slice of apple or paper towel to regulate humidity.

If you like a glossy top, brush the warm muffins with a little melted butter or syrup before storing – it seals in moisture and adds a subtle sheen that feels cafe-worthy.

Extra tips

  • Check your leavening. Baking powder and soda lose strength over time; replace them every six months.
  • Don’t open the oven early. The structure sets in the first 10 minutes – interrupt that and they’ll sink.
  • Fill tins two-thirds full. Overfilled cups overflow and then collapse; underfilled ones stay stubby.
  • Test doneness properly. A skewer should come out clean but slightly moist. Dry crumb means they’ve gone too far.
  • Rotate the tray halfway. Home ovens have hotspots – even professional bakers do this.

If all else fails

If your muffins emerge pale, dense or uneven, don’t despair. Split them and toast under the grill with butter and jam; the edges caramelise beautifully. Stodgy chocolate muffins can be reborn as a dessert – warm them in bowls with ice cream and pretend it was a pudding all along.

And if they’re too dry, a quick brush of syrup or honey while warm revives the crumb. No one needs to know they weren’t perfect from the start.

Muffins are meant to be forgiving. They don’t require precision piping or layers of fondant – just a bit of restraint and the right heat. So fold lightly, bake boldly and don’t chase perfection. A good muffin should bounce back when pressed, hold its shape when torn and taste like something you’ll want to eat standing at the bench before anyone else gets one.

Herald contributor Nikki Birrell has worked in food and travel publishing for nearly 20 years. From managing your kitchen to cutting costs, she’s shared some helpful advice recently, including how to prep your barbecue for summer grilling, gourmet hacks for elevating budget ingredients and what toppings to choose for different crackers.

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