Salt and pepper: All your seasoning questions answered

There's more to salt than meets the eye.

There was a day when the options for seasoning numbered a good old table salt and pepper mostly came ready-ground in a sneeze-inducing dust. But now, with supermarkets stocking everything from sea salt to Himalayan pink, the range is almost overwhelming. So what’s the difference between them all and what should you use and when? Nikki Birrell explains.

When perusing the salt aisle at your local supermarket, you’ll encounter a variety of salt types, each with its unique characteristics and ideal culinary applications. Salt can be classified based on its source of origin, such as sea salt, rock salt and Himalayan salt, as well as its texture, which includes coarse, fine and flaky varieties. Understanding the distinctions between these types of salt can help demystify the selection process and ensure you choose the right salt for your cooking needs.

Similarly, pepper is a staple in kitchens, known for its ability to enhance the flavour of countless dishes. Pepper comes in different forms, such as black, white, green, and pink peppercorns, each with unique qualities and flavour profiles. Here we answer all your seasoning queries.

What are the different types of salt in terms of sources and texture?

Sea salt: Harvested by evaporating seawater, sea salt comes in various textures, including coarse, fine, and flaky. It is prized for its natural flavour and mineral content, making it ideal for seasoning, enhancing natural flavours, and finishing dishes.

Rock salt: Mined from underground salt deposits, rock salt typically has a coarse texture and is used for high-heat cooking methods, preserving foods and making ice cream.

Himalayan salt: Mined from the Khewra Salt Mine in Pakistan, near the famous mountain range, Himalayan salt is known for its pink hue and can range in texture from coarse to fine. It is used for seasoning, finishing dishes and decorative purposes.

Salt mines

How should coarse salt, fine salt, and flaky salt be used?

Coarse salt: Ideal for tasks like brining, rimming cocktail glasses and adding texture to baked goods.

Fine (or table) salt: Suitable for general cooking, baking and seasoning dishes during cooking.

Flaky salt: Perfect for finishing dishes just before serving, enhancing texture and flavour.

Salt crystals come in all different shapes and sizes.

My recipe calls for kosher salt, what is that, why is it named such and what should I replace it with, if necessary?

Kosher salt gets its name from its use in koshering meats, a Jewish practice, as its larger crystals effectively draw out blood. Certification ensures that the salt meets strict kosher standards, including its production process and absence of additives. Sea salt is a good substitute for kosher salt, especially if it has a similar coarse grain. If using fine sea salt, reduce the amount slightly, as it is denser than kosher salt.

What is Maldon salt and why is it so highly prized?

Maldon salt, renowned worldwide for its exceptional flavour and texture, stands as a prime example of how artisanal craftsmanship can elevate a seemingly mundane ingredient into a culinary treasure. What sets it apart is its traditional production method, which involves hand-harvesting delicate flakes from the waters of the Blackwater Estuary in Essex, England. This meticulous process, dating back centuries, yields pyramid-shaped crystals with a delicate texture and a pure, clean taste that enhances the natural flavours of dishes without overpowering them. The unique combination of minerality and brininess, coupled with the flaky texture that dissolves effortlessly on the palate, has earned Maldon salt a coveted place in professional kitchens and home cook’s pantries alike.

What are the different types of pepper?

The most common variety, black pepper, harvested from unripe pepper berries, boasts a robust flavour profile with spicy undertones, making it a versatile seasoning for savoury dishes, from soups to sauces to meats. For those craving a milder heat, white pepper, derived from ripe pepper berries with the outer husk removed, offers a subtler flavour profile with floral and earthy notes. Its pale colour makes it ideal for light-coloured dishes where the visual presence of black specks is undesirable, such as creamy soups or mashed potatoes. Green peppercorns, harvested from unripe berries and preserved in brine or vinegar, offer a fresh, slightly tangy taste, perfect for sauces or marinades. Meanwhile, pink peppercorns, not true peppercorns but rather dried berries from the Brazilian pepper tree, lend a fruity and mildly spicy flavour, enhancing salads or cheese boards with their peppery punch.

Black pepper makes a versatile seasoning for savoury dishes

What makes a gourmet pepper “gourmet”?

Gourmet peppers distinguish themselves through superior quality, flavour complexity and meticulous sourcing. While black pepper may seem like a humble pantry staple, gourmet varieties undergo rigorous selection and processing to ensure optimal flavour and aroma. Peppercorns sourced from specific regions, such as the Malabar coast of India or the Sarawak region of Malaysia, are prized for their distinct terroir and flavour profiles, ranging from bold and spicy to fruity and floral.

The designation of “gourmet” pepper often signifies a commitment to quality and authenticity, with producers employing traditional methods such as hand-picking and sun-drying to preserve the peppercorns’ natural oils and aromatics. These extra steps not only enhance the pepper’s flavour but also contribute to its longevity, ensuring that the complex nuances remain intact from harvest to table.

Why do recipes always ask for “freshly cracked black pepper”?

Recipes often specify “freshly cracked black pepper” for several reasons, each contributing to the overall quality and flavour of the dish. When black peppercorns are freshly cracked, they release essential oils that contain the pepper’s characteristic aroma and flavour. These oils are volatile and can dissipate quickly once exposed to air, so freshly cracked pepper retains more of its aromatic complexity compared to pre-ground pepper. The texture of freshly cracked pepper is coarser and more varied compared to pre-ground pepper, which can be powdery and uniform. This variation in texture adds visual interest and tactile satisfaction to dishes, plus cracking peppercorns freshly allows for greater control over the size and distribution of pepper particles in a dish.

New Zealand Herald contributor Nikki Birrell has worked in publishing for nearly 20 years. From managing your kitchen to cutting costs, she’s shared some helpful advice recently, including the pantry items with the longest shelf lives, how to get the most out of vinegar and whether spreads, condiments and chocolate go in the fridge or pantry.