On an eight-day visit, New York Times journalists given rare access to Syria found ruin, grief and generosity. What was missing after eight years of civil war? Young men and a middle class.

Picking our


Ruin and recovery, allotted unequally


Assad is everywhere. So are his underlings

"We all have the same sad stories"

"It was our honour to sacrifice him"

In Aleppo, busy days with nights bereft of light

Even after eight years of war, still the best