Royal Davui is located on a private island in the stunning Beqa Lagoon, famous for its coral reefs. Photo / Royal Davui
Royal Davui is located on a private island in the stunning Beqa Lagoon, famous for its coral reefs. Photo / Royal Davui
If I ever have to be stuck on a desert island, please let it be Royal Davui, where long days spent soaking up the natural beauty are punctuated by delicious meals making the most of the local bounty, writes Anna King Shahab.
The private island home to Royal Davui resort is a blip in the breathtaking Beqa lagoon, the sandy hem of its skirt giving way to coral reefs teeming with marine life. Stepping ashore, we were greeted by literally the entire staff on duty, along with the resort’s founder Christopher Southwick and his partner and co-manager Grant Seylhouwer. “Welcome home”, they firstly spoke – and then sang, in glorious Fijian harmony.
The resort, which Southwick founded two decades ago (when he must have been aged about 10 judging by his still-youthful looks) has just undergone a big design refresh, with everything from mattresses to menus made over. The latter element is something Southwick, who cut his teeth in the fast-paced pressure cookers of large hotel kitchens internationally, considers at the heart of the Royal Davui difference. The meals maketh the magic – or perhaps more aptly magnify the magic, of a stay on this island.
The resort’s design refresh included upgrades to every detail, from menus to mattresses. Photo / Royal Davui
The lunch and dinner menu changes daily, offering a small selection of starters and mains plus a dessert, and guests order in advance. We arrived in mid-afternoon, so had pre-ordered our lunch for that first day – my salad of shredded chicken, watercress, mint and coconut was followed by a rainbow-bright salmon poke bowl and a chocolate espresso mousse, served with a crisp glass of Greywacke Marlborough riesling, it was the perfect meal to introduce my taste buds to the four days of delicious that followed. Over lunch, we ordered our dinner. And so on; lunch and dinner orders are made over breakfast (the breakfast menu is extensive and doesn’t rotate). This allows the kitchen to prepare only what is ordered, minimising wastage. Don’t think this means restricted choice though – over seven days the menu boasts 150 distinct dishes and loads of variety.
The menus are curated daily with 150 distinct dishes, minimising waste and offering endless variety. Photo / Royal Davui
‘Food we love’
Serve what you know and love to eat (which really should be a mantra for restaurants everywhere) is the ethos behind what’s on the menu at Royal Davui. Southwick, Seylhouwer and head chef Joji Bakosojo each bring to the menu dishes they personally enjoy cooking and eating, gleaned from diverse upbringings and world travels. Fiji-born Southwick’s time working in Creole-inflected hotel kitchens in New Orleans comes into play, as does his passion for zingy Asian flavours that work brilliantly with the tropical produce. Seylhouwer adds an American accent with dishes like breakfast’s divine buttermilk pancakes, and pulled brisket tacos loaded to the hilt at dinner. Both Southwick and Seylhouwer have lived in Australia, and the menu reflects the modern Aussie fare the likes of which the late Bill Granger was a key proponent. I must give a special mention to the signature banana bread. The recipe of Grandma Southwick, it graces the breakfast menu and pops up in unexpected places: a loaf greeted me in my spectacular villa, alongside a bottle of chilled bubbles, and it was present in the delectable brunch spread served on an idyllic sand cay a short boat ride away, accompanied by mimosas – a bookable, once-in-a-lifetime activity I heartily recommend). The recipe shall remain a family secret, suffice to say we wouldn’t be able to replicate it anyway, not without Fijian bananas which add so much more flavour than our insipid supermarket variety.
The island's local fisherman delivers fresh catches straight to the kitchen daily. Photo / Royal Davui
Fiji flavours
It’s sadly too easy to holiday in Fiji without ever tasting any local fare. Local gets limelight at Royal Davui thanks to Bakosojo’s skill married with excellent locally supplied produce. A lovo (underground oven similar to hāngī), turns out succulently smoky chicken, pork and lamb that grace the menu along with other traditional Fijian elements worked elegantly into modernised dishes. Chef taught us how he makes kokoda, Fiji’s famous marinated raw fish salad, starting by making fresh coconut milk. Pinning down the scraping tool by sitting on it, he ground the coconut flesh across a jagged metal tip, shredding it into a bowl below, then piling the shredded flesh into a clean cloth and squeezing out the milk. Chef made this all look easy, which it certainly is not. The coconut milk is tossed with the fish (walu, or Spanish mackerel, caught that morning, diced and marinated in juice from bush lemons for a couple of hours then rinsed twice) along with small dices of red, green and yellow pepper, red onion, tomato and roughly chopped coriander, seasoned with salt and pepper. I’ve enjoyed a fair few versions of kokoda in my time, but I reckon Royal Davui’s will be my forever benchmark.
The menu blends Pacific Rim flavours with traditional Fijian fare, offering a true taste of the islands. Photo / Royal Davui
Adding to the pot
A host of other little differences adds to the plate at the resort. Southwick, raised in a fishing business in Fiji, is exacting about the seafood he buys in. A local fisherman pulls up at the jetty and from there his catch goes straight into the kitchen. One morning’s haul I saw included some huge beauties – walu, deepsea snapper or lehi, and grouper among other species, some caught by spear. As well as being not great for health, sugar is often leaned on as a flavour shortcut, but that’s a crutch the kitchen at Royal Davui eschews; its desserts, breakfast classics, cocktails and other sweet items are all the more delicious for their lesser sugar content. Southwick’s mum supplies the kitchen with soft herbs from her impressive garden in Suva, so the herb quota in dishes is generous and fresh. The bar staff led by consummate barman David are adept at mixing whatever drinks you desire – the cocktail list is incredible, but I reckon you do best by letting these guys and girls have some fun – they’ll ask you what flavours and spirits you like and then present you with something fantastic (hint: the passionfruit mojito is a definite winner). An independent distributor helps keep the resort’s wine list ticking along – I stuck mostly to exploring the delicious crisp rieslings and roses which matched the food wonderfully.
The bar staff can whip up custom cocktails based on your favourite flavours. Photo / Royal Davui
Know before you go
Royal Davui Island Fiji Resort is an exclusive adults-only barefoot luxury Fijian resort, with just 16 exquisitely appointed vales nestled around 4ha lush tropical landscape, all located in the spectacular Beqa Lagoon.
Each of the 16 villas and bungalows features a climate-controlled private plunge pool, spa bath, separate lounge room, sun deck and wet bar.
The resort has a legacy spanning 20 years and is owned and run by visionary and fifth-generation Fijian, Christopher Southwick.
The resort has all-inclusive dining included in its rates, with a daily changing menu ensuring no guest experiences the same meal twice.
The menu is fusion of Pacific-rim cuisine, designed daily using fresh, seasonal ingredients that complement the tropical Fijian climate.
Checklist
FIJI
GETTING THERE
Fly non-stop from Auckland to Nadi with both Air NZ and Fiji Airways.
To get to Royal Davui Resort, enjoy a scenic 30-minute flight from Nadi to Pacific Harbour, followed by a 35-minute fast launch ride across the lagoon. Alternatively, take a three-hour scenic drive and speedboat, or book a helicopter transfer.
