Burano in Venice. Photo / AXP Photography on Unsplash
Burano in Venice. Photo / AXP Photography on Unsplash
For a stress-free trip that ticks off several bucket list items, one needs simply to hop on a Mediterranean cruise, writes Lorna Riley
Every travel lover has an ever-changing bucket list; mine has had Venice and Barcelona at the top for as long as I can remember. So Viking’s 13-day,six-country Mediterranean Odyssey feels like the perfect opportunity to tick off both while exploring other iconic destinations along the way.
We begin in Barcelona,where we’ve added Viking’s two-night pre-cruise extension, staying at the Nobu Hotel. Between tapas and sangria, a memorable day trip to the Montserrat mountains (catch the cable car to the top for incredible views to see the Black Madonna), and exploring Gaudí’s masterpieces (Casa Batlló is my highlight), we soak in every bit of Barcelona’s magic. A gourmet dinner at the hotel confirms Nobu’s fine dining reputation.
Then we board our home for the next 12 nights: Viking Sky. One of 15 in Viking’s ocean fleet with a 930-guest capacity, this Scandinavian-designed boutique ship offers elegance and comfort without crowds, kids or casinos, and can visit smaller ports that larger ships cannot.
The icing on this Nordic cake is that all staterooms aboard have private balconies, and our 25sq m Deluxe Veranda stateroom feels luxurious, with a king-size bed, heated floors, minibar, coffee machine, and a welcome bottle of champagne.
Viking boasts the most al fresco dining at sea, with eight eatery options so you can choose where your tastebuds take you. From the main dining venue, à la carte The Restaurant, which offers the widest choice of cuisine on board, to the more relaxed World Café with premium sushi and seafood choices and adjoining Aquavit Terrace with its stunning panoramic views, there is so much variety, we barely scratched the surface
Day two and we’re still in Spain: this time in Tarragona, once the wealthiest Roman town on the Spanish coast, thanks to wine and coin production. We explore the historic Poblet Monastery, resting place of Catalonia’s royalty in the picturesque Francoli valley, followed by a visit to Montblanc, a beautifully preserved medieval town. We finish with a cellar lunch accompanied by regional wines and specialty vermouth; the perfect end to the day immersed in Spanish culture.
Marseille is our next port of call, where we follow in van Gogh’s footsteps through Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and the eagles-nest village of Les Baux-de-Provence, taking in the wheat fields and vistas of some of Vincent’s best-known works and visiting the asylum where he was voluntarily contained and where he conceived Starry Night.
That night at Torshavn, Viking’s cosy jazz lounge with resident band New Dimension, we meet our cruise “tribe”: Roger and Debby from Oregon, part-time Texans Tamara and Steve, and eligible bachelor Ryan from Florida. The laughter and dancing don’t stop all trip.
Monaco is up next: 2sq km of wealth and fairytale beauty. After a walk and a gawk (at the luxury watercraft in the port, and the Prince’s Palace, home to the royal family for more than 700 years), we’re whisked back to Antibes on the French Riviera between Nice and Cannes. Here we fantasise over more super yachts and stroll through the old district, passing the 17th-century ramparts while admiring views of the Mediterranean and the distant Alps. We visit Grimaldi Château, home to a Pablo Picasso museum, and after lunch, journey inland to the village of Cagnes to visit the final home of Renoir, now a museum dedicated to his work.
The weather turns abruptly on our return to Monaco, forcing a dramatic tender boarding — handled with calm professionalism by the Viking crew. It does put paid to our planned return to enjoy a flutter at the famed casinos of Monte Carlo, but we console ourselves with Swedish massages in the Nordic Spa, followed by a poolside movie night under the stars.
Then it’s buongiorno to Florence, Italy! Meeting up with Mike’s old friend Lorenzo, we lunch at his favourite little trattoria, followed by coffee at his family’s centuries-old apartment before visiting the 500-year-old Uffizi Gallery, Italy’s most-visited museum, stacked with Renaissance treasures like Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus and Caravaggio’s Medusa.
Lorna Riley and Mike Wake at the Ponte de Vecchio. Photo / Lorna Riley
Our next port of call is Civitavecchia, gateway to Rome and more than 2500 years of history. We explore Rome’s highlights—Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, Pantheon, and indulge in the creamiest gelato — before returning for limoncello and a Roman feast at Viking’s Manfredi’s (bookings essential, but no surcharge), rounds off the perfect day.
Throwing a coin in the Trevi. Photo / Lorna Riley
Arriving in Naples, we breakfast alfresco before heading off to Sorrento. Winding up the narrow coastal road, there are breathtaking views of the turquoise Tyrrhenian Sea, the Campanian villas and roadside burros, and we pass Vesuvius and the ruins of Pompeii. Our first stop is at Limoncello DiCapri factory, where after a sampling we head for the rooftop bar, ideal for a spritz and a photo opportunity with the stunning Gulf of Naples behind, then it’s on to Sorrento with its pastel coloured buildings and azure skies. A Sorrento serenade from a handsome accordion player accompanies our simply divine lunch of melon, parma ham, mozzarella and bread - and another limoncello spritz. When in Sorrento, sí?
Lorna Riley and her partner Mike Wake. Photo / Lorna Riley
After a relaxing day at sea (which involved a champagne breakfast on our balcony, sunbathing on the upper decks, dipping in the pools, and grazing on delicious food), we woke in Greece’s Corfu. It’s a city rich in history, and we spend another blue sky day on a private tour of the Old Town and Fortress before arriving at beautiful Kommeno Bay, one of the most upscale suburbs on the island. At luxurious Villa of the Roses, we have a Greek cooking lesson before enjoying the spoils on the gorgeous garden terrace overlooking the sparkling sea.
Back at the ship, we’ve booked the Chef’s Table, where the set menu this evening is A Voyage to Korea. There is a saying in Korea that food is one of the five blessings, and we’re certainly blessed by the guest chef’s offerings, each show-stopping course paired with exquisite wine pairings and a welcome bit of banter from our young sommelier. It’s such a wonderful evening that we immediately book again for two nights hence, when the menu is California Cuisine (and proves to be just as spectacular).
And so to Croatia. Dubrovnik dazzles with its marble streets and kilometres of medieval walls. We trace the steps of “Game of Thrones” characters, tour the Dominican Monastery with its fine collection of Renaissance paintings and the oldest pharmacy in Europe (708 years and counting), then impulsively set out on a glass-bottom boat for panoramic coastal views—including a full circle around our Viking ship and a squizz at some palatial residences. It’s a decision that gives us a whole new perspective on the city dubbed “Paradise on Earth” by George Bernard Shaw.
Dubrovnik by sea. Photo / Lorna Riley
The following day in Split, we explore Diocletian’s Palace, where we descend into the well-preserved cellars and find ourselves wishing the walls could talk - although we’re left speechless by the sight of 1700 year old fossilised Roman faeces and by the towering columns transported by Egyptian slaves from Luxor to Split (a distance of 5000km). A farewell reception with the crew back on board is a chance to thank our Viking family, and the ABBA-themed performance later that night has us dancing again with our ever-growing Viking tribe.
Circe's Walk of Shame, Dubrovnik. Photo / Lorna Riley
Finally, we reach Venice for an overnight stay. We cruise along the Giudecca Canal, past St Mark’s Square, and visit Murano, a long-held dream of mine as a collector of vintage Murano art glass. Here we watch master glassmakers create stunning pieces before buying some more treasures to ship home.
Back in our stateroom, a wonderful surprise awaits—mini pavlovas decorated with kiwifruit, made by the ship’s executive pastry chef after an earlier chat about our homeland. It’s yet more evidence of unsurpassed Viking hospitality.
Happy Lorna on Murano. Photo / Lorna Riley
They say all good things come to those who wait: I’ve waited a very long time to see Venice, and Barcelona - and both were as wonderful as I’d anticipated.