The view from Pavilion at Mooloolaba. Photo / Katie Harris
As winter malaise sets in across Aotearoa, Katie Harris heads to Australia’s Sunshine Coast in search of warmth, salty air and whales.
As soon as get my room keys, I toss my bikini on. The swimsuit’s been out of action for months, on sabbatical until next summer in the back of my wardrobe.
But a last-minute trip to Australia’s Sunshine Coast rescued my togs from their fate.
The swimwear isn’t just for lounging; this weekend I’m here in search of whales. Before this, when it came to the saltwater leviathans, there was only one place I knew to go. Our very own Kaikōura.
But my next few days are scheduled entirely around the great mammals.
I’m told it’s early in the season as we jump aboard Sunreef’s Whale One ship to get a preview of the Tallo-Billa, meaning humpback whale, show.
After cruising into the open ocean, we are brought into an immersive sea experience by artist Lyndon Davis. The performance includes humpback whale sounds captured with hydrophones and Davis playing the didgeridoo.
While I don’t spot any whales on this voyage, when Tallo-Billa actually launches, a visualisation of Davis’s Tallo-Billa painting will be projected too.
If you don’t have the stomach for open-ocean venturing, the Saltwater Eco Tours Bushtucker Cruise could be more your tempo.
Slinking around the canals of Mooloolaba, captain and founder Simon Thornalley guides guests through a history of the area, and its kaimoana.
On our arrival day, it’s a balmy 22C, cocktails are flowing and there are a dozen or so passengers, including a few groups of other Kiwis here to learn the local specialties.
Throughout the voyage, seafood, drinks and bush tucker are served – and the chef is very accommodating, especially to non-meat eaters like myself.
Thornalley started the business in 2019 and says the Bushtucker Cruise highlights the history of the food and where it comes from.
“It’s all sustainably sourced, so we’re really passionate about supporting local businesses and indigenous businesses in particular. So all our food comes from bush tucker farms and other local suppliers within 100km radius. A lot of the food we grow ourselves or forage for.
“Seeing the people’s connection to what we’re doing, and for a lot of locals, learning about the culture that we have in Australia. I think that’s the most rewarding part.”
I didn’t visit Sunshine Coast for the food, but the culinary scene quickly became a strong reason to return, including the restaurant Casa.
Established by Kate Gear and her husband, former All Black Hosea Gear, Casa serves Mediterranean fare right on the seaside and is a must-visit spot for Kiwis. It sits alongside the pair’s Casita wine bar, located next door for easy pre-dinner drinks.
I had a classic mix of pasta, burrata and focaccia paired with red wine and prosecco, which went down a treat.
After a night of indulgent food and alcohol, there’s nothing better than a morning acai bowl. While it’s too cold to justify eating one in Auckland right now, the sun gods were smiling on the Sunshine Coast and I stepped into Pavilion Mooloolaba for some fruit-filled salvation.
The beachfront view also helped ease the pain of an early wake-up.
To retox, I rounded off the weekend with salty, crispy, sweet and saucy asian street food at Rice Boi, a place recommended several times during my short visit. Arriving after cocktails at WAT bar, the restaurant was buzzing under the multi-coloured lights.
Having our final dinner here really felt like we had saved the best for last as we shared a feast of bao, deep-fried eggplant and beer. Weeks later, I’m still thinking about that eggplant.
With years of yoga under my belt, it takes a lot to surprise me during a stretching session.
But while doing breath work and yoga ahead of our whale swimming trip, freediver and guide Eloise Power introduced me to a breathing technique that worked instantly to quiet my angst about getting in the open sea.
The breath work element was important ahead of our swim so we could be grounded when swimming with the whales, bringing a positive energy to the experience, you can’t be panicked. Or they’ll run away!
Power instructed us to imagine we were breathing through our nose to the back of our heads, instead of the default of upward, a technique that helped me breathe diaphragmatically, without overanalysing it.
The Pressure Project’s boat was smaller than Whale One, and on choppier days, perhaps not one for those with a sensitive stomach, but the team managed the waves with care.
Our trip out was a preview of the organisation’s Whale Week 7-day retreat, which runs in July, August and September and includes daily swims with humpback whales, meditation and breathwork sessions and ice baths.
During our breathwork session, Power got us to visualise swimming with a whale and the whale speaking to us.
Sadly, this visualised whale was the closest I got to the gentle giants this time.
While others glimpsed tails or water spurts, I wasn’t lucky enough to spot one myself.
At least there were plenty of turtles.
Back with Sunreef, we headed to Mudjimba Island decked out in flippers, a wetsuit and snorkel, ready for my date with the turtles.
Once there, the instructors took us round the island’s shallows and guided us on how to safely swim with the turtles without disrupting their environment.
Swimming alongside a turtle is ethereal. You feel a bit like an alien intruder, floating next to these little creatures.
This isn’t my first rodeo with turtles, but every time it feels just as special.
Checklist
Australia
GETTING THERE
Fly direct from Auckland to Maroochydore on Air New Zealand, Jetstar or Qantas.
DETAILS
sunreef.com.au/snorkel-with-turtles
The journalist travelled courtesy of Visit Sunshine Coast.