Brindlang in Jupp Zauberwald, Alpbachtal. Photo / Tirol Werbung
Between the storybook villages and snow-capped peaks are some of Europe’s most spectacular (and toddler-friendly) adventures, writes Thomas Bywater.
Heidi… HEIIII-DEEEE!” With each hairpin bend and passing Alpine vista, the sound of singing grew only louder from the back of the rental car.
Despite playing on loop since Garmisch, “Heidi” remained the only word our 2-year-old daughter had picked up on the journey so far. Something she repeated, “mit gusto”, as each cartoon episode rolled around. Did I regret leaving her with the iPad? Not in the slightest. Nothing could distract from the excitement of a family trip through Europe’s most spectacular mountain passes. The hills were alive with the sound of negligent parenting.
We were only a valley away from the town of Maienfeld, the setting of the classic story of Swiss mountain urchins, Heidi, and home to the “Heididorf” attraction. Around 150,000 visitors a year come to see the folksy fake village in the foothills. It’s arguably Switzerland’s answer to Hobbiton. However, we were after the real deal. We were on the search for an Alp-sized adventure, suitable for a toddler. That might sound like a tall order, but tucked within the peaks and troughs, this mountainous part of Europe has more than its fair share of child-friendly activities. You just need to know where to look.
Crossing the Alps, via the thin strip of the Tirol and Vorarlberg, borders are as thin as sliced salami. The GPS informed us that there were four countries en route, but it was hard to tell when one ended and the next began.
From the southern edge of Germany, our route meandered south through Switzerland, Austria and into Italy. On a journey of a similar distance from Auckland to Taupō, or the Southern Alps via Arthur’s Pass, you’ll hear a smattering of German, French, Italian and even Romansh – one of the world’s rarest languages. There are dialects particular to one or two valleys. Like a fondue of different languages and cultures, it all melts into one another.
The highest mountain in Germany. One of Europe’s seven highest summits. Even its name sounds like a challenge. Fortunately, this 2962m slab of Wetterstein also comes with a shortcut that makes it accessible to those with the shortest of legs.
The Seilebahn is the world’s longest free-span cable car. Three kilometres of cable haul the cabins up to where eagles dare. Fortunately, the first part of the journey from Garmisch is a bit more sedate. A cogwheel train can be taken directly from town to the cable car.
The whole journey is pushchair-friendly. There’s nothing like standing atop an Alpine summit with a pram, surrounded by mountaineers. From here it’s only a 200m stroll to the golden cross. There is a restaurant, Panorama 2962, at the top station, but you’ll want to take plenty of snacks. And watch out for the cheeky “Alpendole” black birds, spiritual cousins of the kea. They are known to steal sandwiches.
It’s a big day out. A round trip from Garmisch takes around three to four hours. Best to start early to avoid additional hanging around.
€75 per adult return ($144). Children under 6 travel free
Above Maienfield on Mt Pizol, the “Heidi-path” is a barefoot playground that takes you through the landscape from the children’s book. Starting from the Pardeil mountain station, it’s an hour-long round trip, depending on how often you stop. Climbing frames, glockenspiels and a Kneipp trail mean that it could easily be half a day. It’s free to access, but hard to get to without a gondola pass.
The path is reached via cable car from Bad Ragaz.
Gondola fares are 43 CHF per adult and 22 CHF per child ($88/$45) return
Kaunergrat nature park house in the Oetztal Alps is located at the “Schnittstelle”, or meeting point of three valleys. A natural lookout, the playground is inspired by the Gallic-Roman fort that used to watch over the mountain pass. With a lookout tower and raised walkway, you can appreciate the commanding view of the “Gachen Blick”. Asterix would be right at home. Complete with ramparts and the odd Roman shield, it’s not your average playground in the woods. Here you’ll also find the Kaunergrat Alpine Wildlife centre with free entry to the covered exhibition space, out of the unpredictable mountain weather.
Admission, free. Closed Monday.
Even at the Zillertal’s dizzying altitudes, summers can be hot, so the water playground in the Scheulingwald forest close to the centre of Mayerhofen is a welcome attraction. Dissected by “Brindlang” water channels, you’ll find dams, mill wheels and water runs. Recently built sandpits and climbing frames. An ideal place to find a bit of shade and a refreshing take on a playground waterworks.
Free
The summer activity centre in the Engelberg Alps has enough activities to span an entire family holiday. There is a high ropes and climbing course that even adults might find challenging; also, a “marmot slide”, which resembles a 700m natural helter-skelter and tunnel run. However, for a 2-year-old and two tired parents, there were plenty of gravity-related thrills that were far more our speed: namely, the “Holzkugelpfad” or wooden ball path. Somewhere between golf and a marble run, the centre sells balls (7CHF or $14 a pop) to take along a specially built course of downhill channels and contraptions. These wooden shot puts were the souvenir we didn’t know we needed.
Accessible by the Brunni cable car.
Adult 34 CHF ($69), return. Under 6 free.
The Lötzklamm gorge is a scenic walkway above a torrent of white water named after a “bull’s head”. That might not sound like an easy pitch to a toddler, but the setting is spectacular. On a high metal walkway, surrounded by waterfalls and gorges and a Roman tower, the loop walk is an hour and a half of Tolkien fantasy. The gorge opens to a view down the valley from the top of the 30m Lötzer waterfall, which has what is probably the most picturesque hydroelectric power station you’ll encounter. Entry comes with a hard hat.
Parking is limited. Leave your car at the Zams Hospital or take the Zams Römerweg bus.
Adults €5 ($9.60), children under 6 free.
Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
Monte Elmo sits above the Tyrolean town of Sesto, or Sexten, depending on which way you’re approaching. Despite the confused Italo-Deutsch identity, you’re now officially in northern Italy. However, they’re still mad for the playground at the top of a gondola in these parts, too. The Olperl Nature Park is a playground and petting zoo in the scenically appointed Drei Zinnen/Tre Chime range of the Dolomites. Viewing platforms and towers elevate the barefoot track. However, accessing via the cable car from either Sesto or Versciaco, the €20 one-way cost makes it a pricy option compared to others. With the hike a meandering 10km or three hours back down the valley, it’s not going to be an ideal family walk for everyone.
€23 per adult ($44) one way. Free for kids under 8.
More info: Emirates fliesSexten to Munich from Christchurch and Auckland, via Dubai. For more info visit tyrol.com