It has been a wrenching time in Southland, with the pulverising news of Tiwai Point's impending closure. But every time I visit Invercargill, I'm always struck by the character of the people.
They're gritty, incredibly resourceful and know how to rise to a challenge. Invercargill's fabric reflects that great dogged spirit of the south, where time-honoured architecture and crazy-wide boulevards set the stage. But the city's biggest calling card is the fact that it beckons like a national garage, awash in shiny chrome and seductive curves, with world-beating collections of classic motorbikes, cars and domestic machinery.
Be warned, you'll be truly blown away by the scale and unrivalled quality of these collections.
Strutting an entire block of Tay St, a striking purpose-built Art Deco building houses the runaway jewel in Invercargill's crown. Unstoppably engrossing, Bill Richardson's Transport World houses the home-town collector's lifelong passion for trucks and automobiles.
After buying his grandfather's 1933 International D1 in 1967, his abiding love-affair for big workhorses snowballed. This mammoth museum doesn't just gleam and groan with trucks, but classic cars, Kombis, domestic machinery and all manner of quirky gems.
There's a vintage paddy-wagon from the Christchurch Police, circa 1925, retro paraphernalia by the truckload, vintage petrol bowsers, Invercargill's first passenger bus, a vintage Foursquare truck and even the original yellow Mini from Goodbye Pork Pie. (I'm taking this bloody car to Invercargill!)
The fire engine-red Texaco tanker is another star turn. This 1940 Dodge Airflow water tanker was restored by Bill so spectacularly, that legend has that US oil executives from Texaco visited Invercargill to offer a blank check to Bill for "Tex the Tanker". Bill said "No deal."
Boasting over 300 vehicles, the world's most comprehensive Ford collection is deliriously good, including seven of the eight pre-Model T production cars lustily displayed, dating back to 1904, along with some fine "Tin Lizzie (Model T) specimens.
A recent addition is the delightful Cadbury Collection, with a trove of memorabilia salvaged from the Dunedin factory before its controversial closure. I also loved the temporary exhibition dedicated to celebrating 60 years of VW Kombi vans. The retro-themed camping scenes are particularly evocative of golden New Zealand summers.
I furthered my engine fix at their sister exhibition, Classic Motorcycle Mecca, which sports an equally museum-worthy line-up of 300 two-wheelers. Spread across two floors, the classic motorbike displays run the gamut from a 1902 Peugeot motorcycle to a 21st century Simms Corbin Custom, plus plenty of John Britten motorbikes.
An added feature is the George Begg exhibition, the famed Invercargill engineer who hand-built a slate of vehicles in his "toy shop", as part of his glittering career in the motorsport industry. Plus, Classic Motorcycle Mecca has a wonderful tribute gallery to Burt Munro.
Complete your wheely good look around Invercargill at E. Hayes.
Operating since 1932, New Zealand's largest independent Hammer Hardware store boasts one of the nation's biggest private motorworks collections, headlined by the World's Fastest Indian motorcycle. Yes, Burt Munro's original 1920 Indian Scout. Amid the shelves of power tools, spanners, nuts and bolts, a vast array of vintage machinery displays pepper the store.
The real, original motorbike is housed inside a glass cabinet, but there's a replica of the prop used in the film, that you can crawl into, while imagining blasting across Utah's Salt Flats. Remarkably, the E Hayes collection is free to admire. No purchase is necessary. No admission fees apply. Southern hospitality, unplugged.
Where to stay? It's been a beacon for business and leisure travellers for decades. On the northern approach to the city, spacious and leafy, The Ascot Park Hotel is the city's premier hotel and conference centre.
With six different accommodation types, you can be extra choosy about your preferences, although I think the self-contained apartments or studio units are the best. You've got all of the indulgent creature comforts you'd expect from a top-end hotel on-tap, from the fabulous indoor heated pool, spas, saunas and fitness to great regional dining at Emberz Restaurant & Bar.
Sparkling service, legendary hospitality and exceptional facilities are all part of the package. Planning a trip to the Great South? Invercargill is a superb launch pad for exploring the wider treasures, whether it be Stewart Island, The Catlins, Gore and beyond. Make your first pit stop here.