A seven-day cruise of the northwestern Australian coast takes Chris Reed to his new happy place.

The helicopter's shadow dances over a green and brown eternity. A slit in the surface of the Earth appears, a crack in infinity that widens with every turn of the rotor blades. Flecks take form, becoming pools of water, sandstone shelves, enormous boulders.

Alan, the pilot, warns about wind as he takes us down. Second by second, contours are revealed. Then, a narrow ledge between a pool and a drop. Behind the first drop, a much bigger one.

Before descent the ledge was a

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FINDING YOUR WAY TO TRUE NORTH