It starts with Sisi. The Habsburg's very own Queen Elisabeth, known as Empress Sisi, a German in the Austrian court who hated Vienna — all those palatial lumps of stone, the endless formalities — and escaped when she could.

Rode the railroad, her Imperator Express, into the flat plains of Hungary, to her beloved summer palace at Godollo and freedom in the forest.

Godollo is the charming version of baroque: big windows, intimately-scaled rooms, a sense of wealth but not overwhelming ostentation. And the train that takes you there on an APT tour is Sisi's own, restored to all the

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TIPS FOR GETTING THE BEST FROM A RIVER CRUISE