Zodiac rides allow close-up views of Kimberley geology and wildlife. Photo / Supplied
The Kimberley region is home to countless natural wonders, but none rival Talbot Bay’s Horizontal Falls and the twin cascades of King George Falls, writes Johanna Thornton.
Western Australia’s Kimberley region is a rugged wilderness of ancient sandstone cliffs, swirling tides, and remote natural wonders – but two waterfalls stand above the rest, both figuratively and literally. Talbot Bay’s world-famous Horizontal Falls and the breathtaking twin cascades of King George Falls are bucket-list experiences that can only be fully appreciated from the water.
Ponant’s expedition cruise aboard Le Jacques Cartier visits both of these sights on its 10-day ‘Highlights of the Kimberley’ cruise, sailing from Broome to Darwin. To deepen the experience, there’s a team of expert naturalists to accompany guests on Zodiac excursions to these scenic spots and provide valuable insights both on and off the ship.
Part of the thrill of experiencing these waterfalls up close is the contrast with life aboard Le Jacques Cartier, which is nothing short of luxurious. With a capacity of just 184 passengers, this state-of-the-art Explorer-class ship is considered a small luxury vessel, purpose-built for expeditions in remote regions. It’s an all-inclusive experience, with French-style fine dining, free-flowing champagne and some of the most exquisite desserts you’ll find at sea.
Compared to the comfort of the air-conditioned ship, travelling on the Zodiacs leaves you exposed to the elements, from the blazing sun to the rolling ocean swell. Guests lather up in sunscreen, don long sleeves, a hat, sunglasses and fasten their life jackets tightly to prepare for these daily boat rides and the mind-blowing scenery that follows.
A highlight of the itinerary is Talbot Bay’s Cyclone Creek, which is also home to the world-famous Horizontal Falls. Towering red cliffs surround this narrow tidal inlet, which is blessed with the bluest, glassiest water reminiscent of the South Island’s fjords. But that’s where the similarities end.
As the Zodiac motors along this remarkable pocket of the Kimberley, Ponant’s expert guide Rach shares the origins of this “geologist’s paradise”. Once part of a vast inland sea, the sandstone cliffs have been shaped over 1.83 billion years as layers of sediment were tilted and twisted by tectonic forces when the Kimberley basin collided with the Pilbara – one of the oldest pieces of Earth’s crust. Geological forces pushed once-horizontal layers into near-vertical curves, coloured a deep ochre thanks to iron oxide. Viewing rocks that date back to the beginning of the Earth? It rivals a therapy session for putting life in perspective.
All of this wonder is a teaser for the Horizontal Falls, a one-of-a-kind natural phenomenon caused by the area’s intense tidal movement. Seawater is forced through two narrow gaps in the sandstone gorge and, as it rises and falls, creates powerful, waterfall-like rapids that appear to flow horizontally. The Ponant expedition takes guests as close as possible on the Zodiac without motoring through the swirling gap. The area is considered sacred by its Traditional Owners, and according to their stories, boats passing through these waters risk disturbing the Woongudd – the ancestral serpent spirit credited with creating this unique landscape.
The final stop on Ponant’s cruise, and arguably the most spectacular, is King George Falls. It’s the only expedition in the 10-day journey where signs of human life are present, with another ship anchored outside the river mouth, and smaller boats buzzing in and out.
While weather conditions on earlier excursions are ideal, at the entry to the river mouth, the wind and swell are up, drenching the Zodiacs in seaspray as they motor away from the ship. The wind settles at the entry to the King George River, a 14km stretch of the most breathtaking scenery, which guide Arnau promises only gets better the further you travel up it.
As the boat moves deeper into the gorge, the 80m-high orange sandstone cliffs close in, streaked with pink, purple, black and white, shaped by time and weather. In the late afternoon light, the orange rock face glows in the sun, its reflection mirrored onto the water’s surface. Up close, the formations are mesmerising. Smooth, wave-worn ledges near the waterline give way to jagged outcrops that look almost stacked, like Kimberley’s version of New Zealand’s Pancake Rocks. Some slabs have tumbled into the water, where stilt-rooted mangroves cluster at the edges, and pockets of savannah woodland grow among the rubble. While it’s a sight to behold now, it’s a completely different scene during the wet season, when the river and waterfalls are a roaring force of nature, buoyed by tropical rain (Google it – it’s amazing).
At the gorge’s end rises the 100m-high Oomari (King George Falls), where the river cascades down in two places, creating epic “twin falls”. This being a Ponant cruise, there’s a final surprise: a Zodiac hides around a corner, bar staff aboard, offering chilled Champagne for the approach to the falls. All that’s left to do is raise a glass as Arnau steers beneath the waterfall, and a cool mist descends. It’s a memory to treasure and say cheers to.
Ponant’s 10-night “Australia’s Iconic Kimberley” cruise travels from Darwin to Broome.
The writer travelled courtesy of Ponant, Qantas and Virgin Australia.