Vista Ostuni. Photo / Vista Ostuni
Authentic Italy? With dazzling beaches, rustic cuisine and charming towns, this coastal region offers la dolce vita – minus the crowds, writes Naomi Chadderton
When I decided to hold my wedding ceremony in Italy in 2024, my three non-negotiables were a coastal setting, rustic local cuisine and an off-the-beaten track location away from the crowds.
While there are many picturesque Italian towns where la dolce vita reigns supreme against the backdrop of sun, sand, and sea – think Capri, Taormina and Ravello, to name a few – most of them also come swarming with tourists, particularly during the spring/summer season. Yet, the moment we stepped foot in Puglia and began exploring its beaches, vineyards and enchanting towns, I knew it was the one.
Since then, I have returned to this southern Italian gem many times, always managing to find something new to discover. After all, if it’s good enough for Justin Timberlake, who exchanged vows with Jessica Biel at the luxury Borgo Egnazia resort in 2012, then it’s good enough for me (and you).
Whether you’re planning an Italian whistle-stop tour or combining time in Puglia with a trip to the likes of Rome, Florence or Naples, here’s exactly where you should spend your time.
Providing a serene setting for my nuptials, Monopoli holds a special place in my heart. Filled with charming white-washed streets, enchanting old churches and beaches with warm turquoise waters, make this bustling port town your first port of call.
You can also combine Monopoli with a visit to Polignano a Mare, another gorgeous coastal town perched atop a 20m-high limestone cliff, just a 15-minute drive or train journey away. You’ll find some of Puglia’s best beaches and restaurants here, including Grotta Palazzese which, while may be one of the region’s most expensive, is a must for a special occasion thanks to its one-of-a-kind location set in a cave carved into the cliffs overlooking the deep blue Tyrrhenian sea.
La Locanda sul Porto is perhaps my favourite restaurant in Puglia, famous for its incredibly fresh seafood including crudo under ice, bruschetta of scarlet prawns atop chicory and sea bass plucked from the ocean that very morning. Elsewhere, check out Carlo V for oceanside cocktails and Spaghetti di Italia for huge portions of well-priced pasta, and be sure to spend the day at Le Palme Beach Club where you can hire a sunbed and spend the day sipping on cold rosé and digging into traditional Puglian-style pizza.
For a city centre dwelling, the five-star Locanda Don Ferrante is my pick of the bunch with its small rooftop pool, sun-drenched terrace and 10 intimate rooms. Meanwhile, those after a beachside retreat should look to Hotel La Peschiera with its seven pools and world-class views.
Nicknamed the “White City” for its sun-bleached buildings, this hilltop beauty is surrounded by endless olive groves that spill toward the Adriatic, just a 30-minute drive from Monopoli. You’ll spend your days getting lost among its maze of winding streets, where every turn leads you to even better views, and when you fancy a break, there’s no shortage of bars tucked along its cobbled lanes, ready to serve up a perfectly mixed Negroni.
Osteria del Tempo Perso is my favourite restaurant in Ostuni, but it also happens to be everyone else’s too, so be sure to book in advance and request a table in the cave. For a more rustic experience, head to Masseria Moroseta on the outskirts of town for a meal based around only the freshest of ingredients (mostly vegetables), many of which are sourced from small organic gardens.
We spent the last night of our trip at former 16th-century palace La Sommità Relais which, despite its high price tag, was more than worth the splurge thanks to its intimate setting (it is home to just 15 rooms), dreamy spa and Michelin-star restaurant, Cielo. I also can’t wait to stay at Vista Ostuni, a former tobacco factory turned 28-room luxury retreat which is opening its doors this summer.
Alberobello may be Puglia’s most touristy spot, but it’s well worth a visit for its impressive collection of trulli – traditional dry-stone huts with conical roofs. A Unesco World Heritage site, the town’s zona dei trulli features over 1500 of these whitewashed houses, now home to cafes, shops and restaurants. It can get pretty crowded, especially in July and August, so try to visit early in the morning or around sunset to enjoy its charm in peace.
L’Aratro is a long-standing favourite known for its warm service and traditional Apulian dishes served in a charming trullo setting, while for something more refined, make a reservation at Evo Ristorante for its creative tasting menu that reimagines local flavours with modern cooking techniques, all in a beautiful garden space just outside the historic centre.
You can’t spend the night in Alberobello without sleeping in a trulli, and B&B Fascino Antico is a great shout for those on a budget. For something a little more luxurious, Le Alcove offers elegant suites, each uniquely designed to blend historical architecture with modern comforts, while its location in the heart of the city offers easy access to all the best attractions.
Dubbed the “Florence of the south”, Lecce leans into tradition like no other region of Puglia. While it’s a great base from which to travel to the region’s other towns, it’s also worth spending a few days here perusing its beautiful 17th-century architecture (think palazzi, chapels and piazzas) that is so distinctive it has its own name; barocco leccese (Lecce baroque).
Top highlights include the Basilica di Santa Croce, whose facade is made up of the likes of gryphons, dodos, biblical figures and cherubs, as well as the Museo Faggiano, where a Lecce townhouse has been turned into a living history lesson.
Gimme is an award-winning restaurant with a modern and minimalist style, specialising in cuisine from the southern Salento region. Don’t skip past the lobster gnocchi and local red snapper, as well as the excellent wine list. It’s also worth taking a cooking class while you’re in town – with Cook In Puglia you can learn how to make orecchiette pasta with the locals in a wine bar in the heart of the old town over an incredible Baroque view.
Patria Palace is widely regarded as the best hotel in Lecce, having reopened its doors in 2024 after a four-year renovation. Tucked away in a charming piazzetta with a view of the Basilica of Santa Croce, it boasts a rooftop bar, gourmet restaurant and 58 elegantly-appointed rooms and suites overlooking the city.
Tucked away at the easternmost tip of Italy, where the heel of the boot meets the Adriatic, the charming town of Otranto is rich in history, home to the striking Otranto Cathedral and the impressive Castello Aragonese. However, its beaches are where the magic truly happens, with its craggy coastline offering prime spots for diving and soaking in the coastal beauty. When it’s time to unwind, the town’s waterfront promenades, lined with inviting cafes and eateries, make the perfect backdrop for leisurely summer afternoons.
L’Altro Baffo, where chef Cristina Cante serves up exceptional seafood with traditional Salento flavours such as her signature sea urchin carbonara, which has earned her near-legendary status in the region. Alternatively, opt for the five-course tasting menu, which shifts with the seasons and the day’s freshest catch. Bellissima.
The swanky Baglioni Masseria is just a 10-minute drive away from Otranto, home to a luxury spa, three restaurants and two swimming pools, including an infinity pool with views over the lake, making it a great shout for sun worshippers. For something a little more central, I highly recommend Hotel Palazzo Papaleo, a five-star boutique property housed in a meticulously restored 19th-century noble residence.