Iran: Spirit of rebellion

Ignoring the road rules outside Tehran. Photo / Vicki Virtue

Iran's leaders have imposed stringent religious laws, but as Vicki Virtue finds out, the people don't let them get in the way of a good time.

Are you sure you don't want a vodka or whisky?" wasn't quite the response I was expecting to my request for a glass of water. But in Iran, it seems the laws of the land are there to be broken.

Not only was I being offered alcohol, I was also at a party where men and women were dancing together - strictly forbidden under Iran's interpretation of Sharia law.

The party was in a private home, where most of the action in Iran takes place.

Stringent laws ban alcohol, mixing of the sexes, Western music and revealing dress, so socialising outside the home isn't much of an option.

But even at home the risks are high. That same evening we watched police hauling away a group of partygoers for the same crime we had all just committed.

As I donned my headscarf and over-shirt to leave the party, I began to comprehend the impact the 1979 revolution has had on the daily lives of Iranians.

Unlike many other Middle Eastern countries, where women willingly cover their bodies and hair for nationalistic or religious reasons, in Iran many women grudgingly wear what is required by law, and a little shorter and tighter than the Government had in mind.

President Ahmadinejad has started to clamp down on those who flout the law, but he may have a fight on his hands, as his fellow Iranians appear to share his rebellious and stubborn nature.

The glamorous young women on the streets of Tehran are more interested in fashion, than politics or religion.

Tehran is a big, sprawling, but not unattractive capital. Despite the proliferation of Soviet-style apartment blocks and the constant layer of smog the city has enough greenery to give it a little charm.

Although homes in Tehran are generally bland, concrete, boxlike structures on the outside, inside they are quite colourful and charming, Westernised in their furnishings, although a bit twee with too many floral patterns, lace doilies and cut crystal bowls.

The mountains to the north of the city offer a pleasantly different vista. They also give non-married couples a chance to meet in public.

On Fridays, Islam's equivalent of our Sunday, the roads into the hills are teeming with singles, couples and families out strolling. Iranians have no bars, clubs or other social activities that allow mixing of the sexes, so they have become adept at finding ways to meet each other in public. In lieu of anything much else, looking for love is a social pastime.

On Fridays, shopping malls attract few shoppers, but plenty of young people looking for mates.

And the unprepossessing Jordan St is the place to cruise if you are seriously in the market. As I drove with three local women, phone numbers were constantly being thrust at us through the car windows by would-be suitors.

Given the limited rights women have in Iran, I was surprised to see how aggressive my female companions were in the mating game.

Since the revolution, the Government's focus has been more on control than progress, but this hasn't always been the case. Throughout the country there are many monuments to Iran's rich and dynamic history.

Esfahan is probably the most magnificent example of the glory of ancient Persia. With their resplendent architecture, the palaces, mosques and museums of Esfahan make it possibly the finest city in the Islamic world.

In total contrast to modern Iran's dull, grey buildings, ancient Persian architecture was a combination of rich blues, greens and golds woven into exquisite mosaic designs.

Walking through Esfahan is a feast for the eyes. Even the most rundown and simple building will have a stunning piece of mosaic tiling or finely carved decoration.

Today, Esfahan's talented artisans carry on the traditions of Persian design in the city's bazaar.

Craftsmen will spend two weeks creating an intricately-etched copper bowl, and the carpets for sale are the most elegant and beautiful pieces I have ever seen, although regrettably a little beyond my price range. Fortunately, Iran's friendly salesmen are quite happy to let you browse without expecting you to buy anything.

To the west of Esfahan is some of Iran's most attractive scenery, with ice-capped mountains, lush greenery, bubbling streams and quaint villages.

This region is also home to some of the country's most significant historical sites. The impressive Takht-e-Soleiman, a Unesco World Heritage site, is in a bowl surrounded by dramatic mountain ranges.

The ruins of this ancient religious site encircle a beautiful, blue crater lake. What Takht-e-Soleiman lacks in ancient carvings and mosaics it certainly makes up for with its spectacular setting.

Nearby, the magnificent Oljeitu mausoleum looms on the horizon. Another Unesco World Heritage site, its imposing structure is topped by the world's tallest brick dome. Dating back to the 14th century, Gonbad-e-Soltaniyeh is an excellent example of ancient Mongol architecture.

If you reach history overload, there are plenty of opportunities in Western Iran to simply enjoy the pleasures of the countryside. I spent one delightful afternoon in the mountains around Kermanshah, an industrial town near the Iraq border.

The mountains paths were cool and shaded, and local families were enjoying picnic lunches by the tumbling waterfall. One family invited me to join them for a lunch of delicious barbecued chicken kebabs.

Away from the prying eyes of the law, the younger female family members had dispensed with their headscarves and were happy to chat to me about their country's political situation.

Despite laws banning any criticism of the Government, Iranians in general seem happy to discuss their dislike for the restrictions imposed on them by their Government, and the lack of progress their country is making as a result of the controlling policies.

Sadly, it is the Government and its confrontational policies that we have come to associate with Iran. But most Iranians are extremely friendly.

After being so warmly embraced over lunch in the mountains, my next experience of Iranian hospitality was an invitation to a wedding in Kermanshah.

I was amused to see that even at such a formal occasion the locals were still happily disregarding the law.

At the reception a huge curtain was hanging, ready to pull across the centre of the room; should the police arrive, men could duck to one side of the curtain and women to the other, abiding by what is widely seen as the ridiculous law obliging the sexes to remain separated.

These acts of social rebellion for Iranians are a way of circumventing the draconian laws under which they are forced to live, enabling them to follow a semblance of the life they had before the revolution, and would like to have again.

But for their Kurdish countrymen, rebellion has become the only means of ensuring their survival. Having had their homes destroyed often, many Kurds have abandoned village life completely and follow a nomadic existence.

Black tents dot the mountainous landscape as you travel west into Kurdistan.

Despite the seemingly endless checkpoints, it appeared that my driver Hussein's concern for my safety was unnecessary. The Kurdish nomads were, like other Iranians, a friendly bunch.

One family invited us to tea. Their tent was a basic affair, the ground covered in straw and a coarse carpet, the walls made from tree branches. Thin mattresses lay on wooden slats suspended from the tentpoles. Chickens ran about, in and outside the tent.

Although many Kurds have abandoned village life out of necessity, deep in the mountains close to the Iraq border, the Howraman Valley hides a few ancient Kurdish Villages. Protected by their impenetrable mountainous position, these villages have survived numerous invasions in the region.

The age-old stone houses are set into the mountainside and stacked one on top of the other, the roof of one forming the front yard of another. Set amid soaring mountains, this little-visited area is one of Iran's most spectacular.

Watching the villagers in Howraman-at-Takht going about their daily business, fixing old cars, preparing food and herding goats, it is hard to imagine the chaos reigning on the other side of the mountains in Iraq, or the bloody battles the Kurds have endured in their fight for independence.

With giggling children in the streets, curious villagers and friendly policemen hitching a lift, Kurdistan seems the picture of peace and happiness.

But outward perceptions hide a more brutal reality. Fighting is not unknown in the region, and the police at the checkpoints were very keen to establish that I wasn't a journalist. Kurdish independence is not something Iran is keen to promote.

Visiting this remote region was certainly a remarkable end to a remarkable journey, through one of the most fascinating and misunderstood countries on earth.

The history, the architecture, the landscapes and, above all else, the Iranian spirit, make Iran such an exceptional place to visit.

CHECKLIST

Visas: New Zealand passport holders need a visa to visit Iran. Unfortunately it isn't as simple as applying at the nearest embassy, although sometimes this does work. Your best bet is to enlist the help of a travel agent or local tour operator, who will issue you with the necessary documents.

Getting there: Emirates has frequent flights to Dubai from New Zealand, and from there you can get a connecting flight to Tehran or most other major Iranian cities.

Getting around: With the help of a guidebook, travelling around Iran alone is relatively simple, although speaking a little Farsi will help enormously. The alternative is to hire a guide who can help with translations and also with some local insights, or to join a tour. Iran is a safe country, so you should encounter few problems. But women need to be aware that in public they must cover their hair with a scarf and wear clothing that hides the shape of their body, and men should always wear long trousers.

Hussein Eskordi was my very competent guide and driver. His German was better than his English, but we managed to understand each other. He can arrange a programme for you and will help with visas. Contact him at: heskordi@yahoo.com.

Package tours: Intrepid Travel offers guided tours in Iran. Phone 0800 600 610 for details.

Currency: Forget about credit cards or ATM machines. Because of US sanctions, Iran is a cash society. The local currency is the rial, but you will find people talking about tomans; one toman is worth 10 rials. It's best to take US dollars to Iran, rather ironically, or euros. Other currencies can be difficult to change. Foreign currency also saves you lugging around huge wads of rials.

Tipping: Tipping is not common in Iran, although in good restaurants, 10 per cent is appropriate.

Further information: Lonely Planet's Iran is an excellent book to help with planning. The tours section has a list of operators who can help with visas and tours around the country.