Explore Exmouth: Swim with whale sharks at Ningaloo Reef

Charles Knife Gorge, Cape Range National Park. Photo / Tourism Western Australia

If you’ve ever dreamed of swimming alongside the largest fish in the sea, stargazing under a velvet sky, or snorkelling through an underwater kaleidoscope, Exmouth – perched at the top of Western Australia’s North West Cape, where the ochre-red desert kisses the turquoise Indian Ocean – should be firmly pinned to your travel map.

We flew with Air NZ direct to Perth, around a seven-hour flight, then overnighted at an airport apartment before flying Qantas the next morning, bound for Learmonth Airport, a flight time just shy of two hours. It’s possible to drive north, but the 1200km journey requires more time than we had for this brief family trip.

Exmouth itself is a small town that’s near-deserted in the parched summer, but comes alive in “winter”, when daytime temperatures average around 25C. It’s the gateway to the Ningaloo Reef, a World Heritage-listed treasure that spans 260km and is home to more than 700 species of fish, 300 species of coral and is part of the migratory routes for dolphins, dugongs, manta rays and humpback whales.

Turquoise Bay. Photo / Tourism Western Australia

Best ocean experience: Swimming with whale sharks

The biggest fish in the ocean, whale sharks, visit the Ningaloo Reef from March to July. It’s one of the only places on the planet where these gentle giants reliably congregate close to shore.

We booked through Ningaloo Whale Shark n Dive, a locally run company that offers a great package including all gear, morning tea, a delicious lunch, a cheeky post-swim beverage and photos in and out of the water. The crew’s enthusiasm was infectious, and their commitment to marine conservation reassuring. After a thorough safety briefing and wetsuit wriggling, we cruised out into the cobalt-blue waters just beyond the reef. A spotter plane overhead helped locate our first shark, and before I knew it, I was in the water, heart racing, swimming just metres from a 7m-long whale shark. There are no words that quite capture the awe of being so close to such a massive, yet utterly placid, creature. It moved with graceful ease, seemingly unbothered by our presence, its dappled skin glowing in the sunlight. A truly unforgettable experience.

The largest fish in the ocean, the whale shark (Rhincodon typus), in the Ningaloo Marine Park. Photo / Tourism Western Australia

Best beach experience: Oyster Stacks

Just a 40-minute drive from town through Cape Range National Park lies Oyster Stacks, one of the best snorkelling spots in the region. It’s only safe to snorkel at high tide, so timing is crucial – check the local tide chart before you go.

Even before I dipped my mask beneath the surface, I could see the promise of underwater magic. And it delivered. Neon parrotfish, elegant angelfish, and entire schools of tiny flickering fish darted between coral bommies just metres from shore. I was in the water barely five minutes before a green turtle cruised past, unhurried and majestic. Another travel highlight.

The reef here is shallow and colourful, a living aquarium that’s easily accessible even for novices. You’ll want reef shoes for the rocky entry, and reef-safe sunscreen to protect this precious ecosystem.

Emu in the Cape Range National Park, near Exmouth. Photo / Tourism Western Australia

Best nighttime experience: Charles Knife Canyon at dusk

We turned inland to Charles Knife Canyon, about 21km from Exmouth town. The drive up is a winding, corrugated road that climbs dramatically into the Cape Range hills – but what a payoff. The view from the top, especially at golden hour, is nothing short of cinematic. Think rugged, red-rimmed gorges, vast open spaces, and the kind of silence that makes you feel deliciously small.

Stay until after sunset, because the real show begins once the sky darkens. Exmouth is a certified Dark Sky location, and on a clear night (most are), the stars dazzle. With no city lights to compete, the Milky Way arcs across the heavens like a paint stroke. I saw more constellations than I could name, countless satellites passing by – and a couple of shooting stars for good measure.

Aerial view of Charles Knife Gorge, Cape Range National Park. Photo / Tourism Western Australia

Best lunch experience: Bamboo

All this adventure works up an appetite, and Bamboo is a perfect lunch stop. Set in a shaded tropical garden just off the main drag, this casual eatery promises the best coffee in town, and delivers delicious sushi rolls, scrumptious lotus chips, teriyaki chicken and fresh salads. The vibe is laid-back, the portions generous, and the staff genuinely friendly – like everyone else you meet in Exmouth.

Best dinner experience: Whalebone Brewing Company

Set among shipping containers and strung with fairy lights, this buzzing bar and restaurant oozes character and is hugely popular with locals and travellers alike. The beers are brewed on-site – though I opt for a local gin tasting paddle – and the woodfired pizzas are legendary. Sit at a picnic table under the stars for the best experience.

Best of the rest

Start your day with a sunrise mission to Vlamingh Head Lighthouse, where you’ll get panoramic views of the reef, the ocean, and even glimpses of whales in season. The golden light is a photographer’s dream, and the wind-whipped silence is broken only by the crash of waves below.

Vlamingh Head Lighthouse, Exmouth. Photo / Tourism Western Australia

Yardie Creek, located in Cape Range National Park (about 90km from Exmouth), offers a unique chance to experience the Aussie outback at its best. A boat tour is provided, but we opt to walk, spotting black-flanked rock wallabies, nesting ospreys, hosts of hanging bats, and fossils embedded in the rocky soil.

Boat tour with Yardie Creek Boat Tours. Photo / Tourism Western Australia

Back in town, snap a cheeky photo with the giant prawn sculpture – a local icon and Instagram favourite. It’s kitschy, yes, but part of Exmouth’s charm. There’s also the Big Whale Shark if one large creature is just not enough.

Finally, for a sweet treat that won’t upset the dairy-averse, hunt down the Sun Cream ice cream caravan near Town Beach. Their coconut-based ice cream is as creamy as the real deal, and the perfect post-snorkel pick-me-up.

Whether you’re here for the reef, the range, or the relaxed coastal vibe, you’ll leave Exmouth lighter, happier, and like me, planning your return. Just don’t forget your snorkel – and maybe your sense of wonder.

The writer travelled at their own expense.