Climbers on the Story Bridge are rewarded with spectacular views, right out to the Glasshouse Mountains. Photo / Supplied
Chris and Anna Knox return to Brisbane 20 years later and discover a city transformed.
Twenty years ago, Brisbane wasn’t much to write home about as a holiday destination. Drab high-rises, nice river, but aside from a fake beach, not a lot to draw you to it. A lot of ibises on rubbish bins.
A lot has changed in two decades. Although, the ibises remain.
With its housing prices now said to be outstripping Sydney and Melbourne, Brisbane is a city on the up. If our visit during the Brisbane festival this September is anything to go by, it’s outstripping its cuzzies as a holiday spot too.
We experienced top-notch dining, flawless coffee, a fantastic range of cultural and tourist activities, great public outdoor spaces, cheap, navigable and clean public transport, and near-perfect weather. But it was the signature mode of Queensland’s capital that set Brisbane’s offerings apart; everything was just “too easy”.
We don’t mean jandals and stubbies – not many of those to be seen. But rather, the outstanding hospitality and welcome that turned a good time into a great time.
Welcoming visitors goes back at least 20,000 years on Turball and Jagera lands. The Welcome to Country and its reciprocal Acknowledgement of Country were prominent throughout the festival and city, connecting the land and its peoples’ long past with the buzzing present. On an unplanned stroll along the river, we stumbled upon the beautiful Mangrove Walk with its totems of snake, swan, mullet, and water interwoven with the boardwalk, alongside information boards detailing their meanings. And at the small, excellent free Museum of Brisbane on the third floor of the City Hall building, a room dedicated to the city’s layered history turned out to be a highlight of the trip.
The river, still as brown and unswimmable as it was 20 years ago, is nonetheless the welcoming and hospitable heart of the city. Twisting snake-like through its centre, not much lies more than a few blocks from its banks, which are remarkably accessible. Generous walking and cycling tracks line both sides, and multiple bridges, make it easy to cross back and forth. The brilliant, bright Craig & Karl inflatable sculptures, built for the festival month, added another dimension to the city’s vibe; they should be permanent!
No matter what time we went out, the river pathways were alive with people; busy commuters, dolled-up crowds heading to and from the copious eating and entertainment options, strollers (both kinds), and endless runners. Brisbanites seemed a very fit lot.
Kangaroo Point, just north of the botanic gardens and a quieter stretch of the river, has echoes of the Hudson around Tribeca; tall apartment buildings, cafes, and tree-shaded pathways. We enjoyed a delicious brunch at Mulga Bill’s, a largely outdoor cafe nestled into the bank of the river right beside the Kangaroo Point bridge. The yiros were good, but the wood-fired eggs were better.
Crossing over the Goodwill Bridge, we arrived at South Bank just in time for a spring squall. Fortunately, even though the fully-booked lunch service was about to start, the River Fish Quay restaurant was very happy for us to shelter at a table, and served up an excellent coffee. You’re welcome! The rain quickly cleared and we continued along the elegantly landscaped riverside walk, toward Brisbane’s fake beach; odd, but kind of cool, and a great place for families. It was a bit nippy for a swim. A host of good restaurants dominate the area just back from the river, including the (so we’ve heard) swanky rooftop bar at The Emporium; dress code applies.
Walking isn’t the only way to explore the river; a regular network of ferries whisks passengers around the city. One evening after a show in the restored and converted powerhouse (aptly named “the Powerhouse”), we tagged onto a ferry using our phones’ paywave (too easy) and were treated to a romantic cruise up the river, past the city’s buildings and under its colourfully lit bridges. Trip cost? 50c. A chatty Uber driver later told us that thanks to a government subsidy, all public transport in Brisbane now costs 50c. You’re welcome!
The cheap transport also trends up. Hot tourist tip: ride the Star Casino’s free elevator to the SkyDeck, 100m above the river to take in some spectacular views, and enjoy a bevvy if you like.
Back down on the fourth floor is a cluster of quality restaurants. We enjoyed a superb Italian meal at Cucina Regina. Again, outstanding hospitality made the meal that much more enjoyable. The wait staff took time to talk, chat, connect.
This was true pretty much everywhere we went. Exceptional service, friendly staff, great food. Near the performing arts centre and art galleries, we did encounter one problem: Fish Lane had too many good lunch options. Chu the Phat turned out to be a good pick, with the maitre’d ensuring we finished in time for our show booking.
On our final day, we packed in a bunch of classic Brisbane experiences, starting with a walk over the river and up a cliff to the iconic Joey’s cafe for excellent coffee and eggs and a giddy view.
Our only real criticism of Brisbane was the slapstick comedy of the pedestrian signage for the Story Bridge. Walking to climb the bridge, we encountered a sign: “East walkway closed to pedestrians”. We diligently crossed to the West walkway . . . where a sign said “West walkway closed to pedestrians”. Not too easy.
The Story Bridge, named after Brisbane public servant John Story who spearheaded the depression-era construction project, is a 74m high, 777m long steel bridge. It’s not as big as the Sydney Harbour Bridge, but Brisbane locals are proud of the fact that, unlike in Sydney, it was made entirely from Australian steel.
We joined six others for a very well organised, professional and safe (and terrifying for one of us) clamber up to the highest point in the bridge, where we were rewarded with spectacular views, right out to the Glasshouse Mountains. The climb even has a wheelchair option.
Then it was back to more eating and drinking! The Story Bridge sits above the Howard Smith Wharves, one of the city’s newer waterside dining areas. The best feature is a continuous bar-seating area right on the water, so there’s no shortage of prime seats. Too easy. In keeping with Brisbane’s open, welcoming feel, the wharves include a large public picnic area. That sign is clear: it says, “This is a public space for all to enjoy”.
After a drink by the water, we mooched along to a stunning lunch at Stanley Restaurant, a high-end Cantonese restaurant. Who knew prawn toast could taste so good? After admiring the existence of a bottle of Salon Grand Cru on the menu, we opted for the signature cocktails. The “all welcome” vibe continued through the menu; we could have spent our Kiwisavers on lobster, but had a reasonably priced, fully exquisite lunch from the yum cha menu.
After all that hard work eating, drinking, walking, climbing and culture experiencing, we ended the trip with a soak at the rooftop Soak in the West End – magnesium-infused pools, steam room, dry sauna, plunge pool, tea and towels; bliss in the setting sun.
BRISBANE, AUSTRALIA
Getting There
Fly direct from Auckland, Wellington, and Christchurch to Brisbane with Air New Zealand or Qantas.
The writers travelled courtesy of the Brisbane Festival and Tourism and Events Queensland.