Forget the tourist checklist. These are the corners of Paris you’ll actually want to linger in. Photo / Getty Images
Want to venture beyond Paris’ crowded spots? Whether you’ve visited before or enjoy a quieter alternative, Alessia Armenise has you covered.
As in most major holiday destinations, it’s always peak season in Paris, and it’s almost impossible to beat the crowds, no matter the time of year. After a decade of living in the city, and constantly trying to find the best itineraries to entertain visitors, I have a few ideas of what makes a weekend in Paris both productive and enjoyable.
Of course, I understand that if it’s one’s first time in the French capital, the pull to wander the busy aisles of the Louvre or see its skyline from Montmartre would be hard to resist. Things and places get popular for a reason – during my university years, I spent many mornings watching the sunrise from the Sacré-Cœur, and I fondly recommend it, but when you are trying to pack as much as possible in, avoiding the most famous spots might be the secret to having a more enjoyable time and gaining a deeper knowledge of the city.
And when a city has so much to offer, it’s not hard to find a way to avoid tourist-filled spots in favour of more niche attractions. Here are my favourite city swaps that I’m sure will make you love Paris as much as I do.
The Centre Pompidou is, without a doubt, a must-visit, and for me, one of the most enjoyable museum experiences in Paris, but sadly it will be closed for renovations until 2030. Fortunately, there are plenty of great alternatives for art lovers. If you only have time for one museum, the Palais de Tokyo is the Parisian mecca of contemporary art and the largest centre of contemporary art in Europe. Once there, make sure to spend a few hours exploring the Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris, located on the east wing of the same building, but often overlooked by visitors.
If you have more time, the exhibitions at the Fondation Louis Vuitton are always outstanding, while if you prefer a leisurely ‘art walk’, you should head to the 6th or the 3rd arrondissements and just browse the many galleries nestled within the cobbled streets – one of the most beautiful ones (and my personal favourite) is the Galerie Perrotin.
When I first moved to Paris as an American literature student, I loved nothing more than feeling intellectual, reading a book in the Jardin du Luxembourg, Ernest Hemingway’s favourite spot. As a long-time resident, though, I must admit it is far from being the best green space in the city.
If you want to experience a park filled with locals instead of tourists, head to the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. Located in the northeast, this is one of the biggest green spaces in the city and boasts some beautiful views thanks to its many hills. The park is also home to one of Paris’ favourite party spots, the Rosa Bonheur, particularly lively on sunny afternoons.
This is my favourite church in the city. It used to be almost devoid of tourists until a few years ago, and even though it’s now getting a bit more popular, visitor numbers are still nowhere near the crowds at the Sacré-Cœur or Notre-Dame. The Saint-Sulpice Church is located in the heart of the chic Saint-Germain-des-Prés district and is characterised by both neoclassical and baroque elements.
Right next to the church sits a traditional café, the Café de la Mairie, which has a terrace offering a fantastic view over Saint-Sulpice and its square. You can find much better food elsewhere, so I don’t suggest eating there, but it’s a great spot to take a few minutes to soak up the atmosphere, sipping a café au lait.
The line between an iconic spot and a tourist trap is as fine as it gets these days, and I fear Café de Flore sits precariously on that line. I’m not against visiting notable spots, but I only go if the food or drink lives up to the hype, and, unfortunately, Café de Flore doesn’t.
So if you really want to sit where Parisian artists once gathered, I suggest you go to the neighbouring Les Deux Magots, which makes a nice hot chocolate. But when I want to actually enjoy a few hours of tea drinking in one of the city’s symbolic spots, I always go to the Paris Mosque. Especially on a crisp and sunny autumn day, there is nothing better than sitting on the terrace, listening to birds chirp while sipping sweet mint tea and nibbling honey-soaked baklava. Additionally, a glass of tea is only €2, a price that hasn’t changed for years despite inflation, and there is also a restaurant and a traditional hammam on site – enough to while away an entire day in relaxation.
Shakespeare and Company has become a symbol of the city, but it’s just one of many lovely bookshops in Paris. In the same neighbourhood, the Latin Quarter, you’ll find the Abbey Bookshop, a charming Canadian bookshop that has been open for 35 years. If you are looking for a traditional French librairie that also sells books in English, the most legendary one is the Librairie Galignani, located on rue de Rivoli and allegedly a favourite of Karl Lagerfeld.
