Paris 2024: What is speed climbing? New Zealand Olympian Julian David explains

Speed climbing is debuting as a standalone event at this year’s Olympics. Previously, it was part of the combined sport climbing event alongside bouldering and lead climbing.

Julian David and Sarah Tetzlaff are New Zealand’s first speed climbers to be selected for the Olympic team. Both have excelled since speed climbing became a separate event. David, the current junior world champion, recently won the Emerging Talent Award at the Halberg Awards. Tetzlaff holds the New Zealand and Oceania women’s time record.

Speed climbing takes place on a 15-metre-high wall featuring a route of 20 hand holds and 11 foot holds. The pattern and holds are standardised globally, but David says: “The wall will slightly differ depending on the texture and the brand of people who make it.

Speed climbers Julian David (left) and Sarah Tetzlaff at the New Zealand Olympic team selection announcement in Tauranga. Photo / Alyse Wright

Top male competitors complete the climb in under six seconds, while the best female climbers finish in under seven, making it one of the fastest Olympic events.

Climbers are timed with an automatic system, starting with one foot on a timing pad and beginning on the third beep of the sequence. The timer stops when they hit the touchpad at the top of the wall.

The competition format in Paris includes a qualification round, in which athletes have two climbs to achieve their best time and qualify for the top 16. A series of one-on-one knockout stages follow this. Rankings from the qualification round seed the climbers for the elimination rounds. Each winner from the seven knockout rounds and the fastest loser advance to the quarter-finals. To claim gold, athletes must win three head-to-head matches.

The sport combines precision, explosiveness and muscle memory. Technique and power are crucial components of successful speed climbing.

Climbing methods are individualised.

“You find out based on your physique, strength, and height how you will climb the route. Obviously, the quicker you are, the faster you are, the more holds you skip,” David said.

He advises newcomers to start with the basics to develop finger strength, saying: “Start slow to go fast is kind of my saying.”

The men’s and women’s speed climbing competitions take place over three days, from August 6 to 8.

Hear it as it happens with live commentary of the Olympic Games Paris 2024 on GOLD SPORT & iHeartRadio, plus comprehensive coverage on Newstalk ZB.