Ao Cacao champions Pacific cacao and supports indigenous producers. It's among a handful of New Zealand businesses producing craft chocolate. Photo / Ao Cacao
Ao Cacao champions Pacific cacao and supports indigenous producers. It's among a handful of New Zealand businesses producing craft chocolate. Photo / Ao Cacao
Cacao prices are at a record high but that hasn’t deterred the crop of boutique companies emerging in Aotearoa. And with Kiwis’ growing appreciation for quality and ethics – and flavour – Nikki Birrell unpacks the growing popularity of craft chocolate.
While we may be known for our wines andcoffee culture, a quiet revolution has been taking place in the world of chocolate, with local makers carving out a reputation for quality, ethical sourcing and exceptional craftsmanship.
At the heart of this movement is the concept of craft chocolate – distinct from its mass-market counterpart in both philosophy and flavour. But what exactly is craft chocolate, and why does it command such a devoted following?
What is craft chocolate?
Craft chocolate is a return to the roots of chocolate making, where every step of the process – from sourcing cacao beans to the final product – is carefully controlled by the maker.
Unlike commercial chocolate, which often relies on mass-produced, bulk-purchased cacao and additives, craft chocolate prioritises quality over quantity. It typically follows a “bean-to-bar” approach, meaning that makers oversee the entire production process, ensuring the purity and complexity of flavours shine through.
This approach allows makers to celebrate the terroir of cacao – the way factors like soil, climate, and fermentation influence taste – just as winemakers do with grapes.
New Zealand’s craft chocolate scene, though relatively young, has embraced this ethos wholeheartedly, with a growing number of chocolatiers championing ethical trade, indigenous connections, and premium ingredients.
Aotearoa’s craft chocolate landscape
Among New Zealand’s most exciting craft chocolate brands is Ao Cacao, led by Thomas Netana Wright, a chocolatier with deep roots in both Māori and European food traditions. With 16 years of experience as a pastry chef and chocolate maker – including time spent training under famed Scottish chocolatier William Curley in London – Wright brings a refined yet rebellious approach to his work.
Ao Cacao’s Thomas Netana-Wright. Photo / @ao.cacao
“We have been in business for four years this November,” he explains. “Our vision at Ao Cacao has always been a direct relationship with the producers we work with. No middlemen or agencies taking their cut or holding onto funds. Since 2021, we have always paid a higher price for our cacao, which is still higher than what most pay, because we want to forge legacy-building relationships with farmers and our people.”
This commitment to direct, ethical sourcing means that Ao Cacao is somewhat insulated from the rising global cost of cacao.
“Honestly, no,” Wright says when asked if rising costs are affecting his business. “Big chocolate companies are feeling it more because their sourcing has always been the cheapest, least ethical. Craft chocolate makers really care about the people behind the process and making sure the supply chain is transparent.”
Ao Cacao is just one of several small-batch chocolate makers redefining New Zealand’s chocolate industry. Each brings a unique perspective and approach to the craft:
Foundry Chocolate is known for its single-origin bars made with only cacao and sugar, showcasing the nuanced flavours of beans from places like Vanuatu and Papua New Guinea. It won them an impressive eight medals at the New Zealand Food Awards last week.
Wellington Chocolate Factory, the country’s first bean-to-bar craft chocolate maker, has been setting the standard since 2010 with its bold flavours and ethically sourced ingredients.
Hogarth Chocolate Makers in Nelson infuse their bars with distinctly Kiwi flavours such as Mānuka Honey & Cacao Nibs and ANZAC Biscuit.
Baron Hasselhoff’s takes a playful approach with unusual inclusions like molé spices and tahini, while still maintaining serious dedication to quality.
Each of these makers shares a dedication to ethical sourcing, meticulous craftsmanship, and a belief that chocolate should be more than just a sweet treat – it should be an experience.
Mini bars at Nelson's Hogarth Chocolate Makers waiting to be packed. Photo / @hogarthchocolate
Why is craft chocolate special?
Beyond its ethical production, craft chocolate offers a depth of flavour that mass-produced chocolate simply can’t replicate. Unlike big-brand chocolate, which often relies on additives, excessive sugar, and industrial processing to create uniformity, craft chocolate embraces the natural complexities of cacao.
Wright believes this makes a difference you can taste. “When people try our chocolate, we always get feedback that they can feel the love behind it and the thoughtful intent.”
Much like fine wine or single-origin coffee, craft chocolate is best enjoyed slowly. To fully appreciate its nuances, experts recommend letting a piece melt on your tongue rather than chewing it immediately. Pay attention to how the flavours evolve – some bars reveal notes of citrus or red berries, while others carry earthy, nutty, or floral undertones. Pairing craft chocolate with wine, coffee or even cheese can further enhance its complexities.
Is it worth the price?
Craft chocolate is undeniably more expensive than supermarket alternatives; a 75g block of milk chocolate from Wellington Chocolate Factory retails for $11, Baron Hasselhoff’s 70g dark milk bar is $13, and Ao Cacao’s 50g dark milk chocolate is $16.50. A Bennetts Taste of New Zealand chocolate box will set you back $60.
Chocstock festival co-founder Luke Owen Smith told RNZ that “chocolate should cost a lot more” and rising costs will lead to a “divide between sort of cheap mass-produced chocolate and higher quality smaller batch artisan chocolate, because those producers are a lot less likely to sacrifice quality”.
Craft chocolate’s value extends beyond the price tag. Not only do you get a higher quality product, but you are also supporting sustainable practices, fair wages for farmers, and the survival of traditional chocolate-making techniques.
As the industry grows, more Kiwi chocolate makers are earning international acclaim, proving that New Zealand’s place in the world of fine chocolate is only just beginning.
Whether you’re new to craft chocolate or already a devotee, there’s never been a better time to explore the exceptional bars being created in Aotearoa.
