Think-big policy proves a winner

Spotting a gap in the fashion market led a young mother from sewing her own clothes to starting a chain of stores for larger sizes. ELLEN READ reports.

"Nothing ventured, nothing gained" is Caroline Mar's motto, with the caveat "know your weaknesses".

Applying this to her life and her business has taken her on a journey from young mother sewing her own clothes to owner of a chain of women's clothing stores with turnover of $1.5 million a year.

Fifteen years ago Mrs Mar, unable to find attractive, affordable clothes for "big girls" in shops, resorted to making her own.

At the time she was working part time as a plainclothes store detective in department stores and was amazed at the number of women who approached her asking where she shopped.

This, plus a visit to her mother, who was working at a big-girls' clothes shop in Melbourne, led her to the conclusion that there was a gap in the New Zealand fashion market for larger sizes.

From there, via an evening course in business management at Carrington Technical Institute and a mortgage on the house she and her husband owned, she set about establishing her own company.

An important part of her preparation involved doing her own market research. She would loiter outside clothes stores, counting how many of the customers who entered came out with carrier bags.

Her first shop, Just My Size, opened in Glendene in 1989 and ran for two years. When the lease expired she moved to Mt Albert Road premises where The Carpenters Daughter opened in 1991.

The change of name stemmed from a desire for a more upmarket image and a name that did not refer to the size of the customers.

Mrs Mar is the daughter and wife of carpenters. The name also reflects her interest in the Amish people and their simple way of life, and relates to the life of Jesus.

Service and appearance are important to her and the business.

"People are paying good money for these things, they should look their best," she says.

The Carpenters Daughter now has three shops - in Mt Albert Road, Lower Hutt and a Remuera store that opened yesterday.

A mobile shop also travels to Palmerston North and New Plymouth every eight or nine weeks.

The business employs 12 people but, as she puts it herself, Mrs Mar keeps a finger in every pie.

Although she doesn't advertise on the radio, she does some print advertising. But she prefers to rely on word of mouth and her extensive database.

From this she does mass mailouts and direct targeting.

"My best advertising is having a happy client go out the door. You can't beat that."

She is not looking to expand The Carpenters Daughter, saying it has reached a level she is happy with and that her main goal now is to fine-tune the business.

"I've got the recipe correct now and I'm not going to change it," she says.

Mrs Mar is the head designer - getting her inspiration from New Zealand colours and landscapes - but contracts out the manufacturing of the clothes.

The business is kept fresh by having five new styles on the shelves each week, which also encourages customers to visit regularly.

Referring to her motto, Mrs Mar practises what she preaches - she's a visionary and an entrepreneur but is not so good with the numbers.

So she employs someone to manage the books and numbers side of the business, and has meetings each week to make sure she knows what is going on.

Her advice to other budding business people is to go out and give it a go, but to be aware of weaknesses and heed advice from experts.

The biggest mistake small businesses make is try to expand too fast, she says.

"But every mistake is a lesson in life" is her positive response to the pitfalls of business ownership.

Asked what the hardest thing is she replies: "I love it. Nothing's that hard."