Porto's colourful buildings set against the river make for one mighty picturesque city. Photo / Supplied
Porto's colourful buildings set against the river make for one mighty picturesque city. Photo / Supplied
From Porto’s historic streets to the vine-clad hills of the Douro, northern Portugal makes for an appetising getaway at any age, writes Nikki Birrell
My first visit to Porto, some 27 years ago on a European backpacking trip, was entirely unintentional.
We’d fallen asleep on the train, missed our Lisbon stop, and ended up in Portugal’s second-largest city instead.
A very happy accident, as it turned out – not just for its characterful architecture and dreamy riverside setting but, admittedly, also for one hell of a night out that ended in a lock-in with some charming Portuguese bartenders.
Returning for the first time since then, I wondered if my glowing memories had perhaps been overly influenced by youthful exuberance.
This time, my visit was far more planned, thanks to Inntravel, specialists in self-guided walking holidays across Europe.
I’d opted for their four-night Porto and the Douro Valley Short Break, drawn by the freedom to explore independently while having all the logistical details expertly mapped out.
To make the most of it, I tacked on extra initial days in Porto with friends. And I’m happy to report that this charming city remains as shiny a memory as it ever was – with the Douro Valley now adding to the highlights.
Waiting for my pals to arrive in Porto, I set off in search of provisions for us and soon found myself on Rua das Flores – a pedestrianised street heaving with tourists, drawn by the trendy cafes, restaurants, souvenir shops and chic boutiques running its length.
The October sun is T-shirt-worthy, and at the street’s southern end people are sitting outside with drinks, listening – and, in many cases, singing along – to a busker several notches above the usual street performer. The energy is infectious, and I’m boggled at the sight of the surrounding magnificently tiled buildings.
The owner of a small wine shop I find around the corner, on learning I’ve just arrived, enthusiastically offers a quick tutorial on the basics of port – the sweet libation for which the city is named.
I spy a white port and am told it’s more often than not served as an aperitif with tonic water. That and a bottle of vinho verde, a refreshing style of white wine from the nearby Minho region of Portugal, go in the bag for welcome drinks.
A delicious initiation. We also introduce ourselves that evening to bacalhau, or salt cod, which holds a special place in Portuguese cuisine.
Cafetaria da Bolsa is a humble wee local spot off the beaten track, offering all the different iterations of this staple ingredient – such as bacalhau à Braga with braised peppers, tomatoes and onions, and bacalhau à Gomes de Sá, shredded cod with potatoes, eggs and parsley – along with many other traditional Portuguese dishes.
It’s hard to avoid cod on a menu in Porto but one other must-try dish you’ll see time and again is the famed “franceshina” - meaning “little French woman”, an odd name considering you’ll need the appetite of a rugby player to get through one.
This indulgent sandwich is layered with cured meats, steak and sausage, then smothered in melted cheese and drenched in a rich beer-based sauce, and often served with an egg on top... and fries - indescribably good.
Porto's famed franceshina sandwich is even better washed down with a cold Super Bock beer. Photo / Nikki Birrell
Luckily, Porto is a city that rewards a lot of calorie-burning walking, with its steep cobbled streets, layers of history, grand tiled facades and glimpses of the Douro glinting between the buildings.
The city’s complex history is reflected in its extraordinary architecture, a mix of medieval, baroque and modern styles.
In the binder I receive from Inntravel, they’ve conveniently mapped out several detailed themed city walking routes and, on each, the sights are endlessly intoxicating.
From the Clerigos Tower, a baroque masterpiece that offers breathtaking views over the city, to the nearby Sao Bento railway station, whose grand interior is covered with over 20,000 azulejo tiles depicting scenes from Portuguese history – every turn here reveals magic.
Porto's history is evident in its abundant architectural styles. Photo / Allan Harris
In the Bolhao neighbourhood, I take a gander at Mercado do Bolhao, where you can walk around with a glass of Portuguese wine and pick up delicacies such as queijo da Serra, a creamy sheep’s milk cheese, or a quick bite, like grilled sardines or pasteis de bacalhau (cod fishcakes).
I finish with a pastel de nata from a nearby Fabrica de Nata store, its warmed custard filling sprinkled lightly with cinnamon, encased in buttery, crispy pastry.
While in Bolhao, too, don’t miss the Chapel of Souls (Capela das Almas de Santa Catarina), with its exterior covered in exquisite blue-and-white tiles depicting the lives of saints.
But it’s the Ribeira (Riverside) district that maybe epitomises the city’s character most, with its narrow cobbled streets and brightly painted houses tumbling down to the riverfront.
Walking through this area feels like stepping back in time, as you pass centuries-old buildings adorned with traditional tiles.
My Inntravel accommodation, Pestana Vintage Porto, is one such historic building right in the heart of it all, as close to the riverside action as is possible.
Porto has six bridges crossing this river, the Douro, the most impressive of which is the Dom Luis I Bridge – an architectural marvel designed by a disciple of Gustave Eiffel (he of Eiffel Tower fame). On the other side is the district of Vila Nova de Gaia, where the famous port houses line the riverbank.
If you have a head for heights you can cross the top of Dom Luis I Bridge. For the rest of us, the lower walkway will do fine. Photo / Supplied
My destination is Graham’s, one of the most prestigious names in port and a bit further up the hillside than many of the others. But it is worth the walk, as you pass through charming alleyways, past colourful houses and laundry swaying in the breeze, and sweeping views over Porto’s red rooftops.
Graham’s impressive lodge welcomes visitors with a deep dive into the world of port. From sweet and fruity ruby ports to rich, nutty tawnies and the intense fruit of a vintage port, here you’ll learn all about the complexities of this delicious namesake of the city.
The Douro Valley offers breathtaking vistas at every turn. Photo / Supplied
Leaving Porto by train, I’m heading into the Douro Valley, where port starts its life among the terraced vineyards and sun-drenched vines.
The journey to Pinhao unfolds like a moving postcard. The Douro River snakes alongside, with vine-laden slopes cascading down its banks, punctuated by whitewashed quintas (wine-growing estates).
Casa Visconde de Chanceleiros is my Inntravel accommodation here, and I’m blown away as much by the panoramic terraces overlooking the vineyards as by the beautifully restored manor house with an old-world charm that instantly makes you feel at home.
It’s a tranquil escape, with lush gardens, an inviting swimming pool and every detail, from the warm welcome of the hosts to the carefully prepared home-cooked meals, speaking of quiet luxury and genuine hospitality. Rosie and Lily, the resident bulldogs, are an adorable bonus.
Casa Visconde de Chanceleiros is a peaceful retreat in the Douro Valley with superlative views. Photo / Allan Harris
A tasting at Quinta de la Rosa, a family run winery that produces not just port but some exceptional still wines too, is included in my package. Supping these with views across the river feels like the perfect way to soak up the spirit of the valley.
By the time I board the train back to Porto, my journey feels like a perfect loop – from the city’s grand port lodges to the terraced vineyards where it all begins. Unlike my first visit, this trip was no accident – yet, in the best way, it feels just as serendipitous.
DETAILS
The writer travelled with assistance from Inntravel on their four-night Porto and the Douro Valley - Short Break, which starts at $1850 excluding flights. See inntravel.co.uk for details.
