Winter cruises offer calm seas, empty landmarks, and unexpected warmth, with fewer crowds and lower costs. Photo / Viking Ocean
Trade crowds and heat for calm seas, empty landmarks and unexpected warmth when you take a winter cruise, writes Tiana Templeman.
One doesn’t expect to enjoy alfresco meals in t-shirts and shorts during the depths of winter. Yet that is precisely what my husband and I are doing on the back deck of Viking Vesta, gazing at Istanbul’s mosque domes rising from the cityscape as the call to prayer rings out over the rooftops.
Our 14-night quiet season cruise from Istanbul to Venice on Viking Ocean’s newest ship looks set to come with a few surprises, including surprisingly warm weather on embarkation day.
Autumn and winter sailings like this one are on the upswing with many cruise lines now basing ships in Europe year-round. After battling through the crowds of summer on previous cruises and almost (literally) passing out from the heat, my husband and I have decided to give sailing at this time of year a try. As we’re organising the practicalities for our trip, we discover another major bonus. It’s not just cruises that are cheaper at this time of year; five-star accommodation is too.
It’s a great excuse to spend a few nights recovering from jet lag at the boutique Four Seasons Hotel in Sultanahmet. Our hotel’s traditional design details blended seamlessly with its quiet luxury, and we were perfectly placed to explore the surrounding area, which is Unesco World Heritage listed. The restaurant was another hit with a contemporary take on Türkiye’s traditional cuisine, and the rooftop bar had stellar views of Hagia Sophia and the Bosporus, where our cruise began. Our five-star stay was the perfect prelude to the luxury, gourmet dining, and history we were about to experience on Viking Vesta.
When boarding day finally arrives, we’re among the first to step aboard the ship, and the hours that follow blur into a haze of Scandi-inspired luxury as we explore our floating home for the next two weeks. The ship is so new it still has that ‘new ship smell’ and the crew’s warmth and professionalism immediately put us at ease. Over the next 14 days, we’ll explore towns like Rhodes, Athens, Corfu, Dubrovnik, Split, and Kotor in Montenegro, where there seems to be more cats than people. It’s a classic Mediterranean cruise experience that’s only missing one thing - crowds of other tourists.
Of course, cruising at this time of year is more affordable for a reason. Seas and the weather can be unpredictable, but this is a small trade-off for the benefits that come with cruising in winter, even if the weather is rainy or a little chilly. We’ve experienced terrible weather on prior European trips when we’ve paid top dollar to visit at the ‘best time’. It simply comes down to luck, and this time fortune smiles upon us.
As the days pass, we get into a rhythm with an (excellent) morning coffee from the barista who remembers our order after day two and greets us with a cheery smile, followed by waffles at Mamsen’s for breakfast. When we return to the ship, there’s time to enjoy the daily afternoon tea served in the elegant Wintergarden lounge or a soak in the spa’s complimentary thermal suite. This toasty-warm haven is ideally suited to a winter cruise and includes facilities like a hydrotherapy pool, steam room and sauna. There’s also a snow grotto that’s more relaxing than it sounds and has me feeling like Elsa from “Frozen”, encased in my own peaceful snowy world.
Evenings are spent sipping a pre-dinner glass of wine as tunes from the ship’s classical duo drift towards us through the three-story atrium. Dinner in one of the ship’s restaurants, none of which attract an additional surcharge, is something we always look forward to. The two specialty restaurants require bookings, but we never wait longer than a few minutes for a table for two in the main dining room. Wine, beer and soft drinks are complimentary at lunch and dinner and include a choice of red, white and sparkling wine that changes daily.
It’s not just drinks that are included in our fare. Viking’s ocean (and river) voyages include a daily excursion showcasing the region’s most iconic attractions at every port which seem to magically appear outside our window each morning. In Kuşadasi, we skip the included tour of Ephesus, which we’ve visited before and head to the Ionian cities of Miletus and Magnesia on one of Viking’s in-depth for-a-fee small group excursions.
Everyone on our bus is keen to see the Hellenistic theatre and Roman bathhouse at Miletus, not realising an even more impressive historic marvel awaits us at Magnesia. Here we amble down a non-descript path for 10 minutes until we turn a corner and discover a 30,000-spectator stadium from circa 1st century AD. With fewer than 20 visitors here, all from our ship, it feels like we’ve stumbled into our own private chapter of ancient history as our guide explains what a day at the stadium would have been like for spectators back in the day.
A few days later, Viking Vesta docks in Katakalon, the most popular spot for cruise tours to Olympia where the first Olympic Games took place in 776 BC. We’ve been to this port several times during summer but never visited the famous ancient site due to the oppressive heat and high summer tour prices. This time, we can’t wait for our ship’s complimentary excursion and book the earliest tour of the day so we’re the first people there. Our fellow passengers are similarly eager to explore Olympia, and our guide must almost hold us back when we arrive before freeing us to explore.
Once again, the only people here are from our ship as we stroll past the spot where the Olympic flame is still lit today and discover another ancient stadium. Instead of the marble seating we saw at Magnesia, this arena is surrounded by sloping embankments that provided seating for the spectators who cheered on the male athletes who came from throughout Greece to compete at the ancient Olympics. Not having to push our way through crowds means there is more time to experience famous historic places like this one, and more space to do it.
After yet another incredible day of exploring one of Europe’s most famous historic sites, it’s hard to believe we were initially worried a two-week cruise during the quiet season might be too long. Reconnecting with this more peaceful travel experience has reminded us of the European trips we did together in our late twenties, and also given us a fresh appreciation for exploring the wonders of the Mediterranean by sea. There’s no chance of me getting my youthful good looks back, but Viking Vesta has reignited my spirit of discovery and starry-eyed enthusiasm for exploring the world.
Pack for changeable weather
Add a few lighter clothes to your suitcase in addition to jeans, long-sleeved shirts and sweaters, as temperatures can be changeable at this time of year.
Flexibility is essential
Skipped ports and cancelled excursions can happen due to inclement weather so prepare for the unexpected and embrace the adventure of off-season cruising.
Early season cruises are best for shoppers
Some gift stores and other smaller shops may close during the coldest winter months. If you’re a keen shopper, an early or late quiet season cruise offers the best shopping opportunities.
Independent excursions could be limited
Independent tours may operate less frequently at this time of year so do your research and don’t leave it too late to book if you have your heart set on a particular tour while your ship is in port.
Enjoy the simple pleasures
Sometimes it can be just as enjoyable to skip an organised tour and spend the day strolling along the deserted streets, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere that comes with cruising at this time of year.
Staying There: The Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet is in the heart of Istanbul’s UNESCO World Heritage listed old town. Find out more at fourseasons.com.
Sailing There: Viking Ocean Cruises offers a choice of quiet season itineraries in Europe, ranging from seven nights to one month. Find out more at viking.com.
The writer travelled with assistance from Viking and Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts.