What it’s like on Holland America Line Australia and New Zealand cruise

The Holland America Line cruise ship Westerdam on the 14-day Australia and New Zealand cruise at Tauranga in February. Photo / Nicola Lamb

Hopping over the Tasman by jet is normal, a voyage is something fewer people do, but it’s a journey full of wild beauty and delight, writes Nicola Lamb

Flying from New Zealand to Australia by plane is routine for some people, and fun for others if it doesn’t happen very often and they have a window seat.

The shapes you see looking out from high up resemble what’s there, hidden far below, on earth. Snow caps of cloud stretch like vast mountain ranges. What seem like sky blue rivers and lakes peek through. At times it all looks like frozen ice.

But what would it be like crossing the Tasman Sea from the water? That’s something that is less routine and fewer people experience.

The easiest and safest way is by cruise ship, and I got the chance in early February on the 14-day Holland America Line (HAL) Australia and New Zealand cruise.

Heavy mist in the Tasman Sea during a February crossing from Hobart, Tasmania, to Fiordland, New Zealand. Photo / Nicola Lamb

Westerdam started in Sydney and travelled across the Ditch from Tasmania to Fiordland; a journey that takes two full days at sea.

The conditions were, for one day, something I had never experienced before on a cruise ship. On February 7, the day started grey and in several hours became bleached of colour – a white wall all around, just beyond the ship.

A white wall of mist around Westerdam on February 7 in the Tasman Sea. Photo / Nicola Lamb

In the afternoon, it was like hitting the Waikato winter fog at Meremere, heading south. Thankfully, we weren’t on State Highway 1 and, as the ship bridge manager said, “there’s not much traffic in this area”.

At that stage, Westerdam’s position was about 280 nautical miles from Hobart, and the view from the bridge was limited. However, the ship has radar to spot big boats, can see any nearby ships’ lights, has other information to tap into, and there are officers on watch to maintain visibility.

A clearer day at sea on February 8 in the Tasman. Photo / Nicola Lamb

There’s a mix of high-tech equipment and practical aids such as binoculars and two-way radios in use. The ship’s horn was also frequently sounded during the whiteout. The next morning conditions were still misty and drizzly, but clearer.

Passengers have a lot of options for things to do, whether the ship is at sea or in port, so two days without stops is no problem.

The Wi-Fi onboard makes use of the Starlink satellite system. People can maintain their latte habit via a specialist cafe. Apart from performances, films and talks, you can get into tai chi, origami, music trivia, pickleball or game contests.

Sea days - life on board

Arriving in Melbourne on board the Holland America Line cruise ship Westerdam in early February. Photo / Nicola Lamb

People obviously have different reasons for wanting to holiday in this way. Some appear to treat it as a floating White Lotus and just aim to relax by the pools and bars. Luxury touches such as chilled wine on arrival and treats go down well.

There are seemingly endless amounts of food and drink, and while your waistband can expand quite nicely from eating in the complimentary dining rooms, there are nice restaurants to try.

Cake day at the Lido Market dining area on board Westerdam. Photo / Nicola Lamb

Other passengers are very focused on their exercise when walking or running on the outside decks, to the exclusion of noticing the scenery.

Then there are passengers who stop and look and photograph when the ship is out of port, and are perhaps there for a bit of everything.

The ability to see a lot in a short period, with nice accommodation and without the issues of re-packing, extra travel and spending daylight holiday time getting to destinations, is a major attraction.

Apart from a few sea days, the travelling part is done at night, and most of the costs are prepaid.

Part of the Lido dining area on the Westerdam ship. Photo / Nicola Lamb

There’s nothing like being in the middle of nowhere with perhaps a stray tanker or a few oil rigs on the horizon. Somehow, there are usually small birds skimming the surface.

This trip on Westerdam crossed choppy seas in Bass Strait between Melbourne and Hobart, meaning there was temporarily some wonky walking on board and a cradle-rocking motion when sleeping. Fortunately, the ship’s size and stabilisers reduced the roll but I’m amazed anyone would enter the annual Sydney to Hobart race on small yachts.

A view of the sea during the 14-day Australia and New Zealand Holland America cruise in February. Herald photo / Nicola Lamb

Time at sea is something to look forward to: the sunrises and sunsets; arriving into ports and sailing away; the different moods and looks of the water from smooth to surging; just walking around the promenade third deck or watching from a balcony.

Third deck is close enough to give you a constant feeling of the sea’s power with the thick churn and fizz of the waves. It swirls in different colours from light blue to dark navy and cloudy light green between the froth. The patterns sometimes resemble rock formations, while the sun’s path across the water glints like mineral deposits.

As with looking down at cloud formations from a plane, when looking down at the sea, nature’s various forms keep being reflected back to you in your mind’s eye.

A piece of ship art on board Westerdam. Photo / Nicola Lamb

Westerdam and Holland America Line

Launched in 2004 and refitted in 2023, the ship’s gross tonnage is 82,348. At 290m long and 32m wide, its 11 decks and 984 cabins host 1964 people, 817 crew.

Westerdam will sail around Asia in 2026/27, with Noordam taking over Australasian voyages of various lengths, including a 35-day circumnavigation of Australia.

A deck seven veranda stateroom with a balcony on Westerdam. Photo / Nicola Lamb

HAL itself has been in business for more than 150 years and transported hundreds of thousands of Europeans to America in the 19th and early 20th centuries.

Several of its ships were destroyed in both world wars. In 1940, one of its ships became an allied military troop carrier.

It sold its cargo ships in the 1970s and has since played a key part in the evolving cruise industry, with 11 vessels visiting 400 ports in 114 countries.

Passengers look at the views of Milford Sound from Westerdam's deck three. Herald photo / Nicola Lamb

The writer travelled courtesy of Holland America Line.