Deep in the Gondwana Rainforest, every step feels like a journey through time and untouched beauty.
Is this trail tucked amongst Queensland rainforest the most luxurious hiking route in Australia? Cassie Tannenberg laces up her boots to find out.
We’ve been hiking in the Scenic Rim for two days and are yet to encounter another soul on these secluded trails that run deep through the prehistoric Gondwana Rainforest.
This isn’t exactly a surprise; only 24 people are allowed to access the Scenic Rim trail daily, which guarantees an intimate and serene experience amidst pristine wilderness.
The Scenic Rim Trail is Queensland’s only entry in the Great Walks of Australia. It’s in great company, joining 12 other iconic multi-day guided walks, such as the Classic Larapinta Trek from Alice Springs and the Three Capes Signature Walk in Tasmania. Operated by Spicers from March to November, it’s a two- to seven-day through-hike in the Scenic Rim, part of the chain of mountains that wrap around the rural valleys between Brisbane and the Gold Coast hinterland.
The Great Walks of Australia’s signature Scenic Rim Trail is a four-day walk that traverses 60km in total, tracing the inland spine of the Great Dividing Range and the World Heritage-listed Gondwana Rainforest below to eco-camps each night.
With Spicers, you do this in small groups capped at just 12 walkers and two guides. Our journey begins with a 90-minute drive from Brisbane to Clumber, then Spicers’ raised 4WD transports us and our portered luggage to the start of the trail, where we disembark with daypacks and water.
In autumn, we’re blessed with Goldilocks weather – not too hot, not too cold – just right for trekking up to 18km per day.
Don’t let the grade 5 track designation deter you. While the unformed path is steep in parts and crosses uneven terrain, the moderate-to-hard hike is suitable for experienced recreational bushwalkers. That being said, good balance is essential – with narrow single tracks, rock scrambles, creek crossings and fallen trees, it’s reminiscent of the children’s book, We’re Going on a Bear Hunt, where you choose your own adventure to go around, over or under natural obstacles.
The pace is also considerate of all levels with frequent stops as interpretative guides point out elemental aspects of the rainforest ecosystem for an immersive experience. They share stories of indigenous peoples’ connection to the land, bushfire regeneration, mycelium networks and the cloud canopies created by tall trees. Mighty as these giants are, it’s the forest floor that draws the eye again and again.
Under our feet, we navigate gnarled roots, mossy logs and muddy trenches. Above us, wispy grandfather beards, strangler vines, and birds nest ferns dangle from solid trunks. Everywhere is alive – the rainforest reclaiming fallen foliage, hollowing out trunks, lassoing logs, creeping up stems, sporing in the air and sprouting from trees.
Our guide, Hayley, points out bracket fungi with evocative names like elephant ear, turkey tail and horse hoof that create steps on trees or alight on logs like butterflies. We brush against native raspberries and passionfruit, bangalow ferns and knotty figs and know to avoid the stinging gympie trees. We learn to identify the towering trees that create the cooling cloud forest, including the red cedar that attracted the timber getters, and discern the difference as we transition to drier eucalypt forest.
Manmade timber-getters’ thoroughfares cut a wide swathe to arrive at kulguns that intersect with indigenous songlines. Barely discernible in the foliage-filled ground, we follow Hayley on these ancient paths through the lush canopy.
We stop for morning and afternoon tea, sitting on foam pads on the ground and enjoying homemade brownies, banana bread and freshly brewed tea and coffee.
For lunches, Spicers’ chefs have prepared thermoses of hearty meals to fuel our hikes, such as minestrone stew with homemade sourdough or a Mediterranean bean salad.
Arriving in camp daily around mid-afternoon, a refreshing towel and a glass of locally sourced elderflower water await, along with a moreish charcuterie platter of regional cheeses, fruit and spreads with homemade pickles and dips.
Reflecting relaxed luxury, the Timber Getters and Amphitheatre Eco Camps feature seven wooden cabins, sleeping two per cabin in twin king single beds with comfortable, warm bedding, plus ample chargers and storage.
A floor-to-ceiling tilt door directly across from the beds lets the outdoors in – plus a screen to keep unwanted nocturnal visitors out.
While mod cons are at a minimum, thoughtful additions include a daybed, desk with mirror, fold-out chairs for the private deck and a yoga mat to stretch out before bed.
Shared bathrooms are spacious and private – think steaming hot individual showers – and stocked with Queensland-owned Perfect Potion aromatherapy amenities, including a sleep scent for a restful slumber after a day on the trail.
It’s cool and crisp, and the lack of bright lights to protect the local fauna means you can spy the starry sky on a clear night.
With no Wi-Fi in the cabins, the main lodge serves as the eco-camp epicentre with internet access, a warming fire and a cosy dining room where you can help yourself to chilled wine, beer, spirits, kombucha or soft drinks.
Each night, we gather around long tables to debrief on the day as we tuck into vegetable-forward fare, many with local produce sourced from Spicers’ farm. Think vegan moussaka, crispy potatoes with turmeric cashew spread, beet salad, roast lamb and homemade sourdough with fresh berries and tiramisu for dessert.
Breakfasts are similarly hearty, with rotating items such as porridge with Spicers’ honey, scrambled eggs and bacon, fruit salad, berry yoghurt compote, sauteed mushrooms and tea and coffee.
One morning, we leave camp and embrace the surrounding silence for “bush bathing”, connecting with nature on a solitary, contemplative walk down the timber-getter trails.
And that might be the real luxury – having this spectacular wilderness all to yourself.
Great Walks of Australia | greatwalksofaustralia.com.au
Scenic Rim Trail | scenicrimtrail.com
The writer was a guest of Spicers Scenic Rim Trail.