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Home / Travel

Rotorua: A walk, warm water and wings

By Elisabeth Easther
NZ Herald·
28 Nov, 2014 08:00 PM4 mins to read

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After a long walk in the bush feet really appreciate a hot water paddle. Photo / NZME.

After a long walk in the bush feet really appreciate a hot water paddle. Photo / NZME.

Lapping up lakes and communing with nature, Elisabeth Easther is charmed by the Sulphur City

Rotorua bubbles over with charm. Walking is one of the region's most popular and affordable attractions and the Tarawera Trail is the latest route to be carved in the hikers' map.

Opened officially late last year, this picturesque promenade is 15km long, winding from Te Wairoa carpark (just south of the Buried Village) to Hot Water Beach, a popular picnic and camping spot right on the lake.

Built in partnership with the Department of Conservation and the owners of several private blocks of Maori land, the track borders Lake Tarawera and Te Wairoa Valley. Bush, birds, and pretty vistas combine to make this a real treasure.

We were not in the mood to cater our own picnic, and I heartily recommend swinging by Ciabatta Bakery.

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In a building tucked in a relatively industrial part of town, Swiss Alex and Kiwi wife Jen have been making artisan breads for six years. They have also been teaching their craft for nearly three years.

We decided we could justify a bit of gluttony on account of the kilometres we'd be clocking up.

Armed with our epic feast, we set off on a five-hour walk. We had plenty of stops along the way to read the information panels about the history and ecology of the area and to admire the peeps of sparkling blue lake.

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Deafening dive-bombing cicadas acted as our escorts, while sharp-eyed tui the size of kereru gazed down from their perches. Occasionally, kingfishers flitted above, giving the impression of a child's paintbox spilled in the sky. There were also loads of butterflies and dragonflies and the smell of sun-warmed bracken took me back to my childhood spent fossicking in gullies.

Arriving at the lake, we unlaced our boots happily, plunged our feet into the warm water and devoured the rest of the picnic food — bliss.

Clearly, this place isn't called Hot Water Beach for nothing. At the far end of the camping beach, holidaymakers were steaming their dinners, immersing roast pork, a corned beef and a bunch of well-seasoned vegetables in the thermal waters. You can even catch a trout here (assuming you have a licence) and steam it in a little less than hour — natural cooking at its finest.

Running in the Tarawera Ultramarathon.

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All too soon, David, our water taxi skipper and a mine of information, arrived to return us to our car, telling stories of the 1886 eruption of Mount Tarawera and the region in general.

Thinking we'd have a hard time beating that wonderful walk, we were delighted to be similarly enthralled by a trip to Wingspan, the National Bird of Prey Centre.

Nestled in the woods on Paradise Valley Rd, the centre works to secure the birds' long-term futures through conservation, action and education. Every day at 2pm, there's a flying display and a talk. Who knew so many falconry expressions are in everyday use? Wrapped around one's little finger, mantelpiece, hoodwinked — I love learning things like that.

The first bird to be put through her paces was 7-year-old Millie, short for Millennium falcon. One of just 10,000 karearea left in New Zealand, Millie can fly at speeds of up to 200km/h.

Watching her swoop and soar over the pines on the ridge of the hill was mesmerising. Apparently, falcons can catch things about six times their own size, which is pretty impressive.

Swinging lures loaded with falcon fodder, handlers Ineke and David (with 6-month-old Bindi) controlled the birds with elegance and affection.

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Hang on to your hats, though, because occasionally the birds skimmed low over the tops of our heads at speeds of up to 120km/h to collect their kai. Now that's what I call fast food.

Rotorua, you've charmed us again.

NEED TO KNOW

Rotorua Holiday Inn: 10 Tryon St, Whakarewarewa, Rotorua.

Ciabatta Bakery: 38 White St, Rotorua.

Lake Tarawera Eco Tours: (07) 362 8080.

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Wingspan: 1164 Paradise Valley Rd, Ngongotaha.

Elisabeth and her party were guests of Destination Rotorua.

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