Sarah Downs laps up luxury, cocktails and easy-going adventure in Bali's southern coast

Within minutes of arriving in Uluwatu I'm deliciously languid on a St Tropez-style lounger under swaying palms — but I'm not horizontal for long.

Dance music thumps loudly from speakers and there's a flock of bronzed bodies taking selfies against sweeping ocean views. This popular area on Bali's Bukit peninsula, famed for its idyllic surf breaks, dramatic cliffs, and hidden beaches, is drawing new crowds with fashionable beach clubs such as Ulu Cliffhouse.

I order a cocktail from one of the buttoned-up staff (serious Grand Budapest Hotel

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