Juliette Siversten traveled to Bali seeking wellness and relaxation but it didn't come easily

The 3m wingspan of the manta ray above me creates a solar eclipse in the ocean. She drives forward gracefully as if her wings are conducting an orchestra to a largo musical tempo. Her tail is pin-thin and straight - but harmless. Unlike other rays, the manta has no sting.

I float in neutral buoyancy, my breathing matching the maestro's. When my lungs are full, I rise slightly in the water, as I breathe out; I gently sink, staying in time with the manta ray's movements.

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