Barry O'Brien discovers a wealth of history and culture as he travels down the Ganges.

We were in a tiny village on the banks of the Ganges in northern India. Many of the residents had never seen Caucasian people, houses had no running water, many had no electricity, but nearly everyone had a mobile phone. And we felt like film stars as there was a line-up to have selfies with us.

Sari-clad women carried tubs of dried cow dung on their heads for burning in the stove. Water buffalo were milked by hand and green feed was fetched from the

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