Sue Halliwell on the where, when and how to see polar bears sustainably.

In the clear light of an Arctic night I saw my first wild polar bear. Ursus maritimus, ocean, ice or polar bear, by whatever name he was a bold and beautiful creature.

From the deck of the MS National Geographic Explorer I watched his masterful dissection of a seal atop a large chunk of sea ice, leaving me in no doubt about his king of the Arctic status.

He was the reason I'd come to the Arctic, and I wasn't alone. Arctic tourist numbers have boomed in

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