On a culinary-focused Danube river cruise, Caroline Eden gorges on excellent food and the rich history of Europe's grandest cities

Margaret Thatcher's smile beamed out between a knotty plait of garlic and a string of shiny red chillies. It stopped me in my tracks. After all, the Iron Lady is not who you expect to find in a Hungarian market hall in 2019.

Taken in the 1980s, the photograph had been stuck up by a market trader. His message for shoppers like me was: if my Hungarian chillies were good enough for her, then they're good enough for you. I

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