South Australian winemakers don't hide their light under a bushell, nor should they, writes Thomas Bywater

How do you know if someone is a winemaker?

You know because they tell you, a couple of times, usually within minutes of meeting.

To make wine you need three ingredients: grapes, yeast, and an industrial vat of ego. Things South Australia has in abundance.

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The acreage around Adelaide, the capital of Australia's most productive grape-growing state, is a patchwork of vineyards. Each is a mini fiefdom, pursuing its individual vision for good Aussie wine.

There are more than 200 cellar doors in the

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