Andrew Stone squeezes on to FJ128 from Taveuni to Nadi, Fiji.

The aircraft

: A DHC6-400. Known as a Twin Otter, these small twin-engined commuter planes are ideal for landing on remote airstrips. They carry up to 19 passengers. There are no toilets, or cabin staff, because there is no room.

Airport experience : Best described as Island style. Taveuni's single-strip airport is at Matei, a charming small town on the northeast corner of Fiji's third largest island, a lush volcanic lump 60km east of Vanua Levu. Passengers, and their luggage, are weighed before departure. Fence wire separates the tiny

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