James Lewisohn celebrates the grape harvest in style with the fellow Danes who run Borgo Santo Pietro.

One fine October Sunday, in the shade of a 400-year-old oak tree, the holy trinity of alcohol, sugar and fat - along with a healthy dose of caffeine - is zinging through my bloodstream thanks to an excellent tiramisu.

It is the finale of a lunch to celebrate the first vendemmia — the grape harvest — at Borgo Santo Pietro, an estate set on 200ha of Tuscan plains between Siena and the Mediterranean. Today, they are gathering cabernet sauvignon and merlot grapes.

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