Once a bazaar and kosher slaughterhouse for Kazimierz, Krakow's old Jewish quarter, Plac Nowy — or "New Square" — is today known for its open-air flea market and food stalls.

So on a recent visit, I ordered zapiekanka (a traditional Polish sandwich) and perused the souvenir stands as I waited for the cheese to melt.

There were, of course, shot glasses, figurines, mood rings and other standard tourist trinkets.

And then there were the "Heil Hitler" signs.


The sale of Nazi memorabilia might seem troubling in a country where 3 million Jewish residents and as many as 3 million non-Jewish