Once a bazaar and kosher slaughterhouse for Kazimierz, Krakow's old Jewish quarter, Plac Nowy — or "New Square" — is today known for its open-air flea market and food stalls.

So on a recent visit, I ordered zapiekanka (a traditional Polish sandwich) and perused the souvenir stands as I waited for the cheese to melt.

There were, of course, shot glasses, figurines, mood rings and other standard tourist trinkets.

And then there were the "Heil Hitler" signs.

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The sale of Nazi memorabilia might seem troubling in a country where 3 million Jewish residents and as many as 3 million non-Jewish