Lindy Laird discovers a land of contrasts, culture and change in Chiang Rai.

The caves in Thailand's Chiang Rai where a football team of boys and their coach were rescued from rising waters now host a flood of a different kind.

Stalls, tour guides, an information centre and other enterprises have inundated the area near the Tham Luang Caves entrance.

Natthapat (''Call me Nat'') told me about the change when we struck up a conversation at an outdoor seat in Chiang Rai City, several hours north by road from bigger, better-known Chiang Mai.

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The province was once best known to

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