Anendra Singh gets a warm welcome in paradise.

Resplendent in a crimson T-shirt and a contrasting pair of black tights, Zerena Vama stood grinning at the gateway to the carpark of the municipal airport of Moue on the Isle of Pines in New Caledonia. We had arrived 30 minutes late on the domestic Air Caledonie flight with the promise of one of the best pockets of swimming beaches in the country.

She grinned and shuffled from side to side in a pair of well-worn, weather-beaten jandals. "I hope one of you can drive?" she asks as we saunter towards a