The website of the city of Venice provides high-water advisories to help people avoid flooded areas. Now it also forecasts another kind of flood: tourist inundations. It uses a scale of 1 to 20 stick figures, the kind found on the doors of men's bathrooms. A recent April day could have been worse: 15 men's-room men. Still, the city felt crowded, pungent, a little sticky. I boarded a train, eager to breathe in a gulp of fresh, authentic Italian air. I went to Treviso.

Treviso? For those who have actually heard of Treviso, the question is probably still — Treviso?

A world away

Rating tourists?

A sense of Italian life