Chris Leadbeater gets on the road to Cairo

Not so long ago, I climbed into a car on the west bank of the river Nile in Cairo, and embarked on what I knew might be a dangerous journey. It was 6am when I stepped out of the hotel, but the morning smog that often cloaks the Egyptian capital was already there, scratching at my every breath. An hour later, the visibility was no better on the desert highway towards Alexandria — although, this time, the culprit was a blanket of fog; a weather phenomenon so rare in Egypt that my