Anthony Peregrine explores a wonderful old city enjoying a dynamic new lease of life.

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After 22 years in office, Alain Juppe — the former French prime minister — quit as mayor of Bordeaux last month. He'd done great things. Under his direction, the port city and wine HQ woke from 20th-century slumbers, gaining dollops of dynamism. Bordeaux had long been monumental and elegant — a capital city in search of a country to rule — but had grown scruffy and ponderously self-important. Juppe put it back in touch with its Latin side, fostering festivals, culture and redevelopment, threading

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