After an unusual border welcome, Tim McCready finds a welcoming world of contrasts during a tour of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Thumbing his way through my New Zealand passport, carefully considering each page, the Serbian border officer looked up at my Serbian friend and asked him to translate a question for me: "What do I need to do to move to New Zealand?"

I laughed. But the officer glared at me and asked the question again. He wasn't kidding.

"Tell him we need skilled workers in hospitality and tourism ... and construction," I said.


Without even a hint of a smile,