Andrew Stone offers some tips for your Iranian voyage.

DO take lots of pictures

but use discretion. Arrests have occurred at defence installations.

DON'T shake a woman's hand unless she extends hers. Iran's cultural rules are very different from ours and just as valid.

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DO take a couple of head scarves if you are female. The dress code is simple and inexpensive.

DO visit the National Jewels museum in Tehran. Located in a bank vault, it is only open for a couple of hours, so the queues get long. The treasures inside, some with a history of being plundered and looted, included the world's largest pink diamond and a golden globe with oceans made of emeralds.

DO try as many dishes as you can

. Persian food is mouthwatering. Fruit juices are fresh and tasty and the kebabs moist and succulent.

DON'T stop crossing a road once you start. Traffic comes from all directions, at the same time. Zebra crossings are decorative, not functional.

DON'T despair that Iran is dry. A couple of weeks on the wagon won't hurt.

DO take plenty of cash. American dollars are handy and earn a good rate.

DON'T worry if you get lost in a bazaar. And don't be afraid to buy gifts, even a carpet. Bargaining will be fun.

DO understand an Iranian visa in your passport can create complications for future visits to the US.