Andrew Stone offers some tips for your Iranian voyage.
DO take lots of pictures
but use discretion. Arrests have occurred at defence installations.
DON'T shake a woman's hand unless she extends hers. Iran's cultural rules are very different from ours and just as valid.
DO take a couple of head scarves if you are female. The dress code is simple and inexpensive.
DO visit the National Jewels museum in Tehran. Located in a bank vault, it is only open for a couple of hours, so the queues get long. The treasures inside, some with a history of being plundered and looted, included the world's largest pink diamond and a golden globe with oceans made of emeralds.
DO try as many dishes as you can
. Persian food is mouthwatering. Fruit juices are fresh and tasty and the kebabs moist and succulent.
DON'T stop crossing a road once you start. Traffic comes from all directions, at the same time. Zebra crossings are decorative, not functional.
DON'T despair that Iran is dry. A couple of weeks on the wagon won't hurt.
DO take plenty of cash. American dollars are handy and earn a good rate.
DON'T worry if you get lost in a bazaar. And don't be afraid to buy gifts, even a carpet. Bargaining will be fun.
DO understand an Iranian visa in your passport can create complications for future visits to the US.