Morocco can be overwhelming and beautiful. Photo / Erica Bray
The souks of Marrakech and Fes are a bucket list destination for shoppers in search of treasures that tell a story, writes Erica Bray.
Shopping the souks of Morocco is a full-sensory journey – and a step back in time. In the maze-like markets of Marrakech and Fes, shopping is a ritual: personal, unhurried, and steeped in human connection. That truth came into sharp focus when I asked a shopkeeper if he had a website so I could think over a leather jacket I’d been eyeing. He chuckled: “No, we do everything face-to-face here.”
That simple exchange captured the essence of the souk experience. Far from the anonymity of online shopping, the souks of Morocco are a centuries-old tradition shaped by scent, sound and serendipity. The air is thick with the aroma of spices – cumin, cinnamon, saffron – mingling with the chatter of bargaining and friendly gossip. Shopkeepers greet regulars like old friends, while tourists snap photos of sequined kaftans and spice pyramids.
Around one corner: butcher stalls with lamb and chicken hang from hooks, stray cats circling below. Around another: an alleyway of glowing lamps, casting kaleidoscopic shadows through intricately cut metal and coloured glass. The maze-like medinas – historic, walled quarters lined with bustling stalls and intricate details of carved wood, chiselled stone and mosaic tile – seemed to stretch endlessly, each turn revealing something that captured my attention and imagination.
Navigating this maze was no small feat. Thankfully, we had Ghali, our seasoned guide from Abercrombie & Kent who revealed the magic hidden amid the chaos. My husband dubbed him “The Mayor of Morocco” for his warm rapport with nearly everyone we passed. At one point, Ghali quipped: “If you see blonde hair and blue eyes wandering, it’s a lost tourist.” That line made us laugh, then nod in agreement as we veered deeper into the medina and realised we’d have no clue how to find our way back.
His presence allowed us to put our phones away and remain fully present – because if you’re glued to your screen here, you’re missing out – and his connections led us to shops we wouldn’t have discovered on our own. And it’s here you find some of the most memorable items to bring home – not just as souvenirs, but as lasting pieces of your Moroccan journey.
We had the welcome carpet literally rolled out for us at Palais Quaraouiyine. Tucked inside an exquisitely restored riad in the heart of Fes’s medina, the showroom houses an exceptional collection of Moroccan and Berber rugs – textiles celebrated worldwide for their artistry and beauty, some of which take more than a year to meticulously craft by hand.
As we sipped mint tea in an opulent salon – worlds away from the clamour of the souks and the clip-clop of donkeys – “rug doctors” in white lab coats unfurled rug after rug for us to examine. Many of the pieces are hand-woven by a local women’s collective using time-honoured techniques and natural dyes.
We received a lesson in the weaving process, the symbolism behind the designs and the dyeing methods passed down through generations. Though we weren’t buying, the experience was a visual feast in the riad’s elegant surroundings. My young daughter even had her own enchanting moment with a “magic carpet ride” as she was gently swung inside a furled rug by friendly staff.
You’ll find a kaleidoscope of leather goods in the souks of Morocco – from handbags, jackets and belts to colourful poufs and traditional babouches (Moroccan slippers). But for a deeper connection to the craft, visiting the Chouara Tannery in Fes is a must.
Operating since the 11th century, it’s the oldest tannery in the world and a living museum to Morocco’s leather-making tradition. From a balcony, I watched artisans below working just as their ancestors did – soaking hides in vats of water, limestone and pigeon droppings (to soften them), then hand-dyeing them in saffron yellow, poppy red and indigo blue.
Witnessing this process deepened my appreciation for the leather goods sold in surrounding shops. You’re not just buying something brilliant and beautiful but a tangible piece of history.
I don’t think I’ve ever used my nose more in a country than I did in Morocco, which is a journey of scents as much as sights.
In Marrakesh, we visited Herboristerie Bab Agnaou, where local herbalists shared the ancestral knowledge of Morocco’s famed medicinal plants and natural remedies. We received a sensory crash course in the country’s most iconic spices, oils, and perfumes – each tied to centuries of tradition in healing, cooking, and beauty.
We were invited to sniff, sample, and explore everything from cumin and saffron to eucalyptus crystals, jasmine essence, black soap, and argan oil – nicknamed “the liquid gold of Morocco” for its nourishing powers in both skincare and cuisine.
While the prickly pear seed oil tempted me with its reputation as a natural Botox alternative, known for smoothing and anti-ageing benefits, I ultimately left with several vials of sweet-smelling rose oil.
The souks overflow with ceramic treasures: hand-painted tagines in earthy reds and cobalt blues, silver-trimmed plates, zellige mosaics in dazzling patterns and Hamsa-shaped platters that blend symbolism with style.
We stopped at Art D’Argile, an artist co-operative just outside of Fes’s medina, to watch artists mould clay, hand-chisel glazed terracotta and paint by hand. (My daughter was even invited to join in on the painting.) With two showrooms full of everything from tall vases to tiny tagines, it’s not only a window into Moroccan craftsmanship but a perfect place to bring a piece of it home.
“Aladdin-style” genie lamps are everywhere in the souks and, unsurprisingly, caught the attention of my Disney-loving daughter. However, it can be challenging to distinguish between mass-produced fakes and those crafted by artisans. The latter are often hand-pierced from brass, copper or wrought iron; masterpieces of design and detail. Many feature Islamic geometric motifs, rich with spiritual meaning – symbols of unity, harmony, and the infinite nature of the divine. When lit, the cutouts cast a lace-like pattern of light and shadow that transforms a space into something truly mesmerising.
We stumbled upon a small lamp shop in the medina of Marrakesh called La Ménara, where I purchased three lamps in various sizes. Today, they light my home – not just functionally, but as luminous reminders of Morocco’s enchantment.
The writer travelled at their own expense.