Gas Bay, Prevelly, Margaret River. Photo / Tourism Western Australia
Visiting Perth? There are more than a few reasons you should spare three days to visit Margaret River, writes Julia D’Orazio.
I hardly need an excuse to visit Margaret River. Western Australia’s southwest region and namesake town brims with colour, its identity tied to indulgences, producing world-class wines and epicurean pleasures; natural beauty, such as pristine beaches, ancient forests, and caves; gnarly adventures, a famous surfing mecca and a hikers’ paradise.
Just a three-hour drive south of Perth, a trip to Margaret River is the perfect “holiday from a holiday” add-on to any west coast itinerary. It’s time to hit the winding road …
Morning
I start the whirlwind trip along one of Australia’s most scenic drives, Caves Rd. The region’s main artery connects rolling vineyards, karri and jarrah forests, farmlands, wildlife (plenty of ‘roos) and is most magical as a sunlit tree-tunnel. I’m tempted to venture off track to dip my toes in one of the region’s beaches – Injidup, Smiths, Yallingup and Meelup, to name a few options. Much further down the road is Hamelin Bay, known for its sting rays, frequently sighted patrolling the coast.
Midday
My energy levels need a refuel, so I combine sightseeing farmlands with bistro pub feeds and boutique brews at Beerfarm. The former dairy farm, now an independent brewhouse, offers a fun, relaxed ambience in its rustic shed (complete with a disco ball) overlooking the countryside. In summer, the massive slip-and-slide comes out, with young ones encouraged to cool off downhill.
To appreciate how the Mediterranean climate deliciously influences the region, I visit Cherubino Wines. The charming Tuscany-inspired cellar door calls for an afternoon among the vines, enjoying wine tastings while grazing on an antipasto platter. A bottle of the region’s signature drop, Chardonnay, is a perfect souvenir.
Evening
It’s time to get intimate at Margaret River’s 35-seat restaurant de’sendent. At this award-winning eatery, sustainability, seasonality and innovation are front and centre, with head chef Evan Hayter using high-quality ingredients sourced from local suppliers to create a distinctively West Coast 12-dish degustation. A bite-sized Manjimup marron cornetto is a standout. If you’re going to treat yourself, this is one exceptional way to do it, with regional flavours and edible art all rolled into one. No regrets here.
Morning
I head where the locals go for a perk-me-up and quick bite at Margaret River Bakery. There’s nothing like an impending hike fuelled by pie power with the hip bakery institution serving Australia’s favourite road trip staple alongside freshly prepared sandwiches, baked goods, and a decent caffeine hit along the town’s main strip, Bussell Highway. For a quick bite, I perch on the bar seats facing the woodlands; however, for a slower start to the morning, sit on well-worn threads in the sunroom retro dining area and mingle with locals.
It’s time to explore the region’s rugged and unruly side following the Cape to Cape. The legendary coastal track spans 130km and weaves through townships and forests between heritage-listed lighthouses, Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin. As it takes between four and seven days to complete, I’m having a taster of the wild west coast, hiking a section of the trail.
Cape to Cape Explorer Tours offers private day tours, with guides delving into the region’s native flora and fauna, geology and indigenous history and culture. The walks are roughly 14km with sections varying due to seasonality and weather. I’m starting the trek at surf spot Redgate Beach. From here, it’s mostly a moderate, clifftop coastal walk with Contos Beach a standout for its sheer drop and surf (watching surfers at play is a bonus). As if the sublime views couldn’t get better, we spot two whales with dolphins, also known to frequent the coast.
Lunch is a bush affair at popular Contos Campground. Our intimate, low-key picnic lunch turns into a wildlife watching session with kangaroos and Australian ravens darting through shaggy peppermint trees. The last leg winds through the soaring Boranup Forest; the sun glistens on the Karri trees, and human-sized tree hollows appear magical.
Evening
After a quick refresh, I enjoy a relaxed dinner closer to home at The Servo Taphouse in Cowaramup. Once a petrol station, the now cosy haunt supplies local and international craft brews alongside Canadian-inspired eats and is a go-to for live music. I soon bar-hop to the nearby Strange Brew Wine Bar. The team behind lo-fi winery Skigh Wines is at the helm of the late-night vinyl bar showcasing local and international wines. Kicking back with a glass of red and a charcuterie board on lounge seating by a roaring fireplace is my kind of late-night vibe.
Morning
Inhaling salty sea air and taking in the sight of rolling waves is one way to feel alive in the morning, and what better place to do it than White Elephant Cafe? The scenic clifftop eatery, located on Gnarabup Beach, is a favourite among locals. I follow the trend: I have a quick dip in Margaret River’s only protected waters, then devour a wild mushroom toast on its deck overlooking the coast. From here, it’s a five-minute drive north to Surfers Point in Prevelly. As its name suggests, it’s the place to watch surfers catch waves and hosts the annual Margaret River Surf Classic.
Afternoon
From being in awe of the scenic Caves Rd, I discover what’s behind the name, venturing into the depths of Margaret River’s limestone ridge. More than 100 caves are found along the scenic stretch, with the most popular being Ngilgi Cave in Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park. Regarded as Western Australia’s first tourist attraction, the karst cave is naturally ornate with shard-like mineral formations.
While it’s possible to explore the cave at your own pace, for a spiritual awakening, I join Wadandi custodian Josh “Koomal” Whiteland on a twilight didgeridoo tour. To hear Josh’s rhythmic sounds reverberating 37 metres below in the crystal chamber is a one-of-a-kind performance.
Evening
It’s time to unwind and make the most of life at Olio Bello. I pre-order homemade pasta and pizza made on the 320-acre olive farm and enjoy it with a wine (thanks to an earlier purchase from Cherubino Wines) in my luxurious glamping eco tent. Seated by the eco fireplace, looking outwards to the lake and woodlands under starry skies, this is the simple life at its finest.
Stay
Olio Bello’s Olive Garden bungalow eco tents start from $398. oliobello.com
Tours
Cape to Cape Explorer Tours offers private six-hour guided hikes for $328 per person (minimum two people). capetocapetours.com.au
Koomal Dreaming’s Twilight Didgeroo Cave Tour is $84. koomaldreaming.com.au
The journalist travelled with support from Tourism Western Australia.